Mombasa-Southampton 1992 – part 1
QUEEN ELIZABETH 2
MOMBASA, KENYA TO SOUTHAMPTON
MARCH 1992
CABIN 4174
Thursday, 10 March – Nairobi, Kenya to Mombasa by air.
We were flown from Nairobi to Mombasa this evening in a fairly compact plane, which gave us quite a few bumps and heaves. The single people were taken directly to the QE2, which was a welcome last minute change. We had to walk the length of the ship past scads of trinket vendors vying for our business, but we trudged on, going aboard on Four Deck, between A and B stairwells. A fine young man named Keith Sterling took us first to the Manifest desk where we gave up our Passports and received cabin assignments. Keith then took me to cabin 4174, which is a twin with bathtub and porthole. Under the porthole is a sofa, completing the dresser and mirror for an almost separate room. Three closets, a frig, and television without VCR complete the cozy picture. My friend, C., came to the cabin and greeted me, announcing he had been waiting for me at the hotel alas!
As usual we talked constantly getting caught up on his life and mine, and soon we went to his cabin, 530 to show me his loot. Wow! Silks galore, china and cutlery. He modeled two suit coats, a white mandarin necked one, and navy double breasted, which he had ordered when in Hong Kong. Pretty impressive!
Friday, 20 March – Mombasa, Kenya
After my morning tour and lunch, I looked up C. who is very hot and busy. Lunch was spent with Mary and a delightful couple from South Africa, Jane and Stephen. They are horticulturists and full of fun. She loves jellies and we consumed them!
I bathed and washed my hair, paid for the excursions, unpacked my bag, which finally arrived, then went to sit on Lido deck to be near C. who continues to sweat and work non-stop. Near five o’clock, C. said he is going to shower, so next time I saw him was at the Cocktail party, where he presided over the smooth running affair. He introduced me to Tony Martin the singer with the band. The South African couple found Mary Lord and me, and we joked together till it was time for me to go dinner. My table 208 has an Australian couple, Mr. Smith from Namibia (originally S.A.) and two American ladies. I hope it gets more fun!
Saturday, 21 March – At Sea
I awoke at seven o’clock and had breakfast with Mary and two gals from Hawaii. I attended the lecture on Egypt. Saw Jane and Stephen at “elevensies.” Then at 10:30 we had boat drill!
Mary, Jane, Steve and I ate lunch together in the Lido area. The muggy air has cooled and soft breeze turned into wind. I walked the deck a bit, but stopped to sit with Mary a long time. Checked on C., and he had a bit of time to tell me about his fabulous dinner in Bombay and other places, Hong Kong, Bali etc. and seeing old acquaintances.
At 2:30 I attended a talk by Herbert Kaplow, the CBS newsman. After tea on One Deck Lido, I returned to my cabin and watched a spy movie. At dinner I had salmon, then met C. at nine o’clock by the Computer Centre and Graham from Hong Kong joined us in the Pig, then at the exclusive new “club.” upstairs. This was quiet. We went back to the Pig and endured very loud music while seeing various friends; Sheila, Neil, Gary, Robert etc. Finally I got C. to take me back while Graham remained.
Sunday, 22 March – At Sea
I had breakfast with my neighbors. I then spent some time in Princess Grill Lounge 2 reading by myself, and then I attended the church service. At lunch I sat with Mary, Jean and Julie, then Jane joined us. She really is trying to shake off Stephen, although he is her husband.
Jane and I attended the two lectures on Egyptian history and Jewish history and the history of the Suez Canal. We then went to One Deck Lido for tea. I also spent some time alone on Boat Deck watching the sunset and walking around sun deck in complete solitude. I decided to pass up dinner entirely, so I settled into my cabin for television and a bath, and then waited for C. who came after nine o’clock dressed in his Ritz outfit. We relaxed in the sitting area, determining what tours he will try for, then I gave him his presents. He really likes the shorts. He left shortly thereafter for a good night’s sleep. I watched more television.
Monday, 23 March – Red Sea
We have been in the Red Sea all day, and ships are passing on outward journeys. I awoke nearly five o’clock, because of the retarded hour this morning. When I couldn’t sleep again I got up at seven and headed for One Deck Lido to study my music. I stayed till nearly 8:30 then ate breakfast with the Hawaii gals on port side. I returned to my study session until time for the lectures at 10:30 on Suez, Egypt and Israel. Jane and Stephen joined me and we went to lunch together, Steve arriving much later.
I attended the Country Fayre in the Grand Lounge and spent $5.00 on a chance for a boat ride on the Norfolk Broads. No luck!
I relaxed in my cabin till teatime when I headed for C’s place. The temperature has cooled considerably and white caps abound. Mary Lord arrived and we talked a while. She showed me her cabin and I reciprocated by inviting her to view mine.
Dinner was better because Florence wasn’t there! I met C. and Graham at the Computer Center again and we went to the Pig. C. had his Ritz tails on. Simeone tore his shirt. We stayed a long time. When C showed Graham the alley and his cabin, Graham and I found our way back because C. had to get to bed fast!
Tuesday, 24 March – Red Sea
This is another beautiful day at sea, and I enjoyed doing my usual drifting. I attended the lecture on the Riddle of the Sphinx – a history of Egypt. I then joined Jane and Steve for lunch. The annual Country Fayre took place in the Grand Lounge with lots of booths and chances. I bought one for a boat ride on the Norfolk Broads and lost. [As I am typing this in 2009, I find I have repeated in my journal back in 1992. I don’t know now which day the fair took place.]
An interdepartmental tug of war took place on the Helicopter deck so C. joined me for that. He then went off duty and to bed early. I returned to my cabin somewhat ill anyway and after a hot bath and television, I bundled into bed and slept. We anchored at some time during the night off Port Suez.
Wednesday, 25 March – Suez Canal Transit.
I awoke at five- thirty to see we were already moving toward the Suez Canal entrance, so I hastened on deck just as we were entering and passing a beautiful Mosque. I took lots of pictures all day of desolate desert, oasis, ships, sands, settlements etc. while visiting with Mary at breakfast and lunch, parked at a table by the aft windows, where we could see everything passing by. When we arrived at Port Said we were nudged by two big tugs into a sort of parking space – to be moored fore and aft. However, the maneuver took more than an hour!
Thursday, 26 March – Port Said and Cairo, Egypt.
C. phoned me early to join him on deck where he was eating a hasty breakfast and getting organized for the day. We then proceeded to Five Deck forward to catch the local launch, a rather stylized varnished little boat. I had to pass through a gauntlet of vendors and a detecting machine and more vendors before reaching the street where a band was playing. We found bus eleven, met the guide and settled our stuff in separate seats. As soon as the bus was full and we were on our way, C. asked the guide if he could switch and sit with me. (He was on the trip acting as the host for Cunard.) The land tour account is in my other book, but suffice it to say we had a great time seeing and experiencing everything. C. had to hold up the Cunard placard and count noses all the time. Giza was the best when we crawled into and out of Cheops’ tomb and rode camels. Actually this camel ride was scary because we two mounted separate camels, aided by the owners, and they led us away from the crowd into a dip in the desert. The two men then proceeded to ask us for the money they wanted, having previously agreed on a couple of dollars. Since neither C. nor I had single dollars, and I only had two $20 dollar bills, they would not let us go until we had given them the two bills. They then led us back to the main tourist area, and we were allowed to dismount. I definitely was spooked and it took time for me to calm down!
Lunch was in a very posh hotel, the Mana House, gilt and with maroon damask; almost Moroccan said he – marble halls. We reacted to all the traffic jams and maneuvering with “horrored” humor! The return was very quiet along part of the Suez Canal with police escorts. I loved seeing the canal from shore as well as on board the ship. The ships passed majestically along the desert!!
We parted for late eating upon return through the same gauntlet, detector, etc.
Friday, 27 March – Haifa, Israel – Jerusalem.
C. phoned me near 7:45 so I went to the gangway while he tracked down his pass. We got to bus ten eventually and had to sit several rows back. The best that can be said for today was that our tour to Jerusalem and Bethlehem was scenically lovely, but with him having to hold up the rear of the party and us all, being crushed up the Via Dolorosa, it was hard for us to be together. We did have a nice lunch at the Jaromme Jerusalem Hotel with six other people at our table. The ride back was more fun as we discussed the day and our political feelings about Israel. We shared our inner feelings about Jesus’ sufferings, is prompted by the crowds and his progress up the Via Dolorosa with the cross and my experience in the sepulcher. We shared skepticism about specific places.
Saturday, 28 March: Haifa & tour to Nazareth
I took my tour to Nazareth and was back by two o’clock. I joined Mary, Joe and wife for lunch. Again the day tour is in my other book. I wrote a letter in my cabin then went for tea on One Deck Lido. C. told me about a chef that got beaten up. The ship left port backwards, being towed astern by a tug. I had noticed this being done to a Freighter before us.
Sunday, 29 March – Rhodes:
I had breakfast with Mary and Vicki’s mom. We sat with Herbert Kaplow. When the ship shuddered to a stop we realized we were already at Rhodes. I went ashore in a noon launch, walked around the harbor to photograph “home” and took the Lindos tour. Rain, then clear.
I was back at the ship by 5:30, and I shared my day’s activities with C. I showed him the nice Rhodes mugs, and then went to dinner at seven o’clock, the main entreé being swordfish. I left by 8:15 to see “Lion in Winter” in the Theatre. I awoke several times during the night and looked out to see land, the Dardanelles. Some say we stopped a while.
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