Liner Lady

QUEEN ELIZABETH 2

WORLD CRUISE SEGMENT

RIO TO LOS ANGELES

Jan. 16, 1993 – Feb. 7, 1993

Cabin 4040

 Saturday, 16 January – Rio de Janeiro, Brazil

At 5:30 this morning I awoke to look seaward from my hotel room for QE2 and there she was, about two miles away sitting in the water biding her time.  Soon she turned from south to west, revealing her Port side – all lit up as she slowly got closer to the harbor entrance to Rio de Janeiro.  I watched her come closer and disappear behind the corner of the hotel.  The reddish glow of sunrise gave her a lovely background for a picture I hope will come out well.

Later I was able to see her tied up in the distance as I gazed from Corcovado.  I was not supposed to embark till the next day so I enjoyed the usual city sites.

 Sunday, 17 January – Rio 

I spent most of the day at the Hotel Rio Palace at Ipanima Beach, waiting for time to load up for the bus ride to the Port.  I embarked and went to cabin 4040 – a white-walled single.  I proceeded on to One Deck Lido and spotted my friend C. by the far side of the pool.  He came when he saw me and we hugged in warm (literally sweaty) greeting!

We sat a while by the bar catching up on everything.  He ordered drinks I had to sign for, then went to the Pig a while, but when the ship started to move, we went to the crew bow to watch the departure.  We leaned on the front facing rail amongst raft tubes.  We talked about romantic spots we’ve been in and Rio now is one of them.  He had been on Copacabana beach all night till five in the morning and was very tired.

The ship was eased away from the dock, which had a tower reminiscent of the Aloha Tower in Honolulu, and we slowly went forward and into the channel, which eventually took us by Sugar Loaf and out along Copacabana and away.  We went to my cabin before he left for his cabin (5231) and bed.  I noticed his pinky finger ring has been cut off, and remembered the reason why, the mugging and robbery in Istanbul.  Cabin 5231 is part of the aft Five Deck now reserved for crew members.

As I passed by Two Deck stairway A, I paused to have my photo I.D. taken – not bad!

Monday, 18 January – Santos, Brazil.

I awoke at seven o’clock and went to see C. at work.  It was rainy, pouring as a matter of fact, but I went on tour number 26 to see the sights of Sao Paula.  We saw huge bronze sculptures, and at the reptile farm, we opted to skip it because of the heavy downpours.  Actually, when I flew to Brazil from Los Angeles on Varig Airlines, our first stop was Sao Paulo, and the flight from there up to Rio was rather low in altitude through mountains, which was quite spectacular.  This took place in early morning dawn.

At 5:45 the ship turned around very slowly with tug help.  Then a black and white tug preceded us closely, pouring water from her water canons.  Santos harbor has five miles of docks along the canal between two islands.

C. had phoned me after six o’clock and came for me at 6:45, when we went to the Pig where I saw Jim, Helen and Kate.  We gals discussed raising kids.  We split up for each one’s respective dinner.  I sat at table 210 in Columbia Restaurant with four Brits, three men and one woman.  Charles Sachs came and told us about his “Titanic” film, and explorations which he will be lecturing about during this segment of the cruise.  I had so much fun I ate my curry vegetable soup, steak and ice cream sundae, lingering late.

I went to the cabaret performance and checked out the new shops – less aisle space and more big shop space.  I also peeked at the old Board Room, which is now the privileged lounge for Key Cunard Club members – the full World Cruise people go here.  Actually the minimum is 33 days and I hear the minimum will be 50 days next year!

 Tuesday, 19 January – At Sea

I secured tickets for my tours, and sat a while on One Deck Lido with Christine Joyce till time for Waldemar Hansen’s lecture on Uruguay, the Rex Hunt’s lecture on the Falklands war, April 1982.  I had met Christine on our Sao Paulo bus tour, when I shifted from a nice front bus seat, giving way to a short little lady I later found out to be Mrs. Levy, who apparently is notorious for insisting on having a front seat.  When I plopped down next to this nice English woman, we hit if off quite well.

Christine and I met for lunch at the Lido with Marie and Cecelia, who joined us as did a lady named Barbara.  I attended and taped the lecture by Captain James on the QE2 role in the Falklands War.  I also bought two books at the Library and one at the new shops.

As usual I see very little of C., but the cocktail party will give opportunity.  Yes, he found me and sneaked up on me unaware.  I was standing with Christine who had been dancing and was on hand when the officers were introduced.  Simon is on!  After waiting for C. to finish up in Queen’s Room and a brief chat with Elaine McKay, (who showed us a quilted pillow of the Cunard crest), we went to stern deck to check it out.  Pub visit was next, where we watched a Beetles show, like candid camera!

At ten o’clock we went (C. still in his silk jacket) went to hear Christine Trevett sing at the Cabaret.  We sat behind stage in Grand Lounge.  After the concert we changed down for the Samba dancing at the Lido.  We danced a bit, then sat on the port side and relaxed with food and drink.  He was using his first public room privileges and when a bit drunk, he let some of his gripes out.  We separated for the night, I to cabin 4040, and he to 5231.

 Wednesday, 20 January – Montevideo, Uruguay

I awoke at seven o’clock but lay abed till 8:30, dozing and checking channel 3, which showed us very slowly approaching the harbor up the vast delta of the River Plate.  We docked an hour or so late so we were late leaving on the tours (#31), City tour and Redencion Ranch.   It was on this tour that I saw Captain Ridley, a former QE2 Master.  The ranch offered a fantastic barbeque lunch à la Uruguay and local dancing show.

When I returned from the tour I went to Lido Deck to chat with C.  He was busy so not much visiting could be done, thus I wandered up to the forward deck under the bridge to observe the surrounding harbor, including the distant Assembly House and the “monte” on which was the Fort at a high point in contrast to most of the landscape being very flat.  I had waited to see us leave port but I couldn’t remain,  since buses were returning late and C. was heading for the Pig at 6:30.  At the Pig (which I reached on my own) Gary and Phil and eventually Jim joined us.  We had little private conversations.

The ship strained to get away because of the blow and we heard the bow thrusters working hard.  Anyway we were left alone in the Pig and soon went to bow deck to look out across to the receding city shoreline, and both of us felt the thrill of the scene.  The pilot boat followed along and to our bow, we saw clouds, which I described as “disembodied mustaches.”  Hilarity immediately. 

I went to dinner and enjoyed Zuilma Hopkins (a professional singer, and voice teacher who knows Jean Allistair etc. at Glyndbourne Opera and she is a Christian Scientist!  Her husband is a wine merchant.  Ken and Harry, all these are my tablemates.  From our table I could see us heading more northerly out the vast delta with Montevideo on portside aft quarter.  I had clam chowder, lobster, Santos fish and chocolate sundae.  We adjourned to the Grand Lounge for the flute and celtic harp concert by Bettine Clemen and Kim Robertson, both Americans and very good musicians (Duo Angelica).  I then retuned to 4040 to retire.   Bettine is German, but grew up in the U.S. later, engaged to Peter Longley. 

 Thursday, 21 January – At Sea

This was a lovely day until noon, when clouds and cool rain developed.  I sat with Christine then met her again for the talks at 10:30 in the Theatre, which included Waldemar Hansen’s travel lecture, and then Captain Peter Jackson, who was master of QE2 on the Falklands mission.   We then went to lunch in the Lido where I had lime pie!  Then we had a pub lunch but I only had a salad.

Rex Hunt, former Governor of the Falklands, talked on the history of the Falkland Islands at 2:30.  When I checked on C. the weather was cold and rainy so no one needed his services.  We talked a while, then Jay from Fort Lauderdale sat with me under the eves.  He told me how to work it on standby for trans-Atlantic crossings.  Call three or so weeks before your date, pay a deposit and wait!

C. disappeared so I went to my cabin to rest, watch television and wait till six o’clock, the Pig hour!  Earlier I had shopped, getting three tins of chocolates and 2 key chains plus a mug.

At 6:15 C. took me to the Pig. Cate was there and monopolized the conversation about children.  Afterward, Gary, Neil, Cate and all left and we two went to his cabin for the evening.  I saw his purchases, pearl and glitter necklaces etc., then we waited impatiently for the 9:30 movies to begin.  We settled for “Barefoot Contessa.”  We shared his Christmas cake.

I went to the midnight buffet on my own   It seems much more simple, but it didn’t prevent me from having bits of beef, shrimp, tuna and fruit, then ice cream and chocolate mousse.  Back at the cabin I washed my hair, caught a “Campion” episode and set my clock back an hour before retiring.

 Friday, 22 January – Port Stanley, Falkland Islands

I arose late.  At nine thirty we had a brief account of WWI sea battle, which I recorded.

Then I cashed travelers checks into £35 pounds.  It was cold and cloudy on deck.  However, as the day progressed the sun came out as we neared the Falklands.  Helicopters came along side, maneuvering on each side, fore and aft.  I ran fore and aft several times just to keep up with the action.  I observed our entrance into the sound from under the Bridge.  Jets flew over at great speed, startling us greatly.  Stanley appeared over a hill, but we had to anchor a long way out!  I ate lunch at noon and went by launch to Stanley.  We could see wrecks in coves; I walked around town; dropped into the “Cathedral” made of wood, then walked along the shoreline out of town to see the war memorial, the Governor’s house, a mizzen mast from the “Great Britain,” and into a woolen shop where I bought a child’s penguin sweater, then went to flag down a local van for my trip to see penguins.  I was picked up by a local along with other interested people, and he drove us to a drop off point, where we had to walk nearly a mile past a cove with two derelict ships and eventually along areas that were wired off with signs warning of mined areas.  We reached an overlook spot where we could see the Gentoo penguins nesting and waddling along shore, right where mines were planted.  Apparently they aren’t heavy enough to detonate them!  Also, as I looked over the bluff, I spotted the anchored QE2 not far away! I walked back to a rendezvous point and was delivered back to town where we were lining up for the tenders back to the ship.

The QE2 football team (soccer) played Stanley today, but I don’t know who won.

I dressed for dinner, and enjoyed the meal of lamb rack with the English people.  Ken was unhappy about his food and a long discussion ensued about food quality and presentation.  Ken is a butcher and Zuilma’s husband is a restauranteur.  Harry is retired and travels a lot.  When we adjourned I went to the movie “Bugsy” which was very crude.  Then I thought I deserved something at the midnight buffet and chose shrimp and key lime pie.  David was my waiter – C’s former roommate.  I watched a late movie and went to bed.

 Saturday, 23 January – At Sea

I attended four lectures today, all spell-binding.  1. Magellan Straits, 2.  Falklands Forum with the three involved men, Capt. Peter Jackson, Captain James and Rex Hunt, 3. Bounty Mutineers, and 4. Zeppelins aircraft.  In between I had breakfast alone, saw C. and Helen on crisp morning Lido deck.  Had lunch with Lois from last spring and Christine plus Harry.  I bought a QE2 jacket, a nice green with the logo on it.

I chased around a bit trying to find C. and finally went to his cabin where he was preparing for his cocktail party on Lido.  Ritz dress.    After this, we met at E stairway at nine o’clock.  I had already eaten the Burns dinner of Haggis, “neeps” and “tatties,” then a Cockaleekie soup and prunes, then Dundee beef.  C. was upset all night protesting it is not Burns night!  Anyway, we went on deck and sat at the Magrodome level watching our wake and the soaring, gliding albatrosses as evening came on.  We then moseyed by his superior officers, where I met the Hotel Manager.  At ten o’clock we heard the Grand Lounge concert with Steve Ross singing cabaret type songs to his own accompaniment.  C. got us a Piña Colada each, mine virgin.  We danced in the Queen’s Room, including Gay Gordons, along with Elaine and David and all!  We ended up at the Yacht Club bar quietly talking.  At one o’clock I left him at his cabin and proceeded to mine, and bed.

 Sunday, 24 January – Straits of Magellan!

I arose at eight o’clock and reached the Lido shortly after, ready for the passage through the Straits of Magellan.  Without being specific in locations, my impressions follow.  The entrance was by a very wide and long expanse so you couldn’t actually see you were in anything.  Then we began to see distant shores either side, gradually narrowing so we could see barren cliffs and plateaus on the south – Tierra del Fuego.  The first evidence of life was a large oil station on the right side, and slow rising hills beyond.  Later came Punta Arenas, the southernmost city in the world.  It looks fairly sizeable with docks, some high-rise buildings and a cruise ship at a dock.  The sun shone for half the day.

I ate lunch at Hamburger Heaven with Christine and Marie with whom I had spent most of the morning.  Oh yes, I took Christine up to the high Funnel crew deck and up one more.  I got some great pictures from there, in spite of the 40- knot wind.  I checked with C. often as we circled around the after decks for our photos.  He slowly froze enough to put on a sweater, and mid-afternoon I had to put on another layer, and yet we froze.  At the narrowest place – English Passage – I was finally able to get photos showing land on both sides.  Then, further on, I got glaciers, Wyndham to starboard and a more impressive one earlier to port.  By six o’clock we were ready to quit, so C., having already departed to rest, Christine and Terry Waite and I parted to go below.  [This was the day and historic time when Terry Waite finally managed to sidle between Christine and me, and I got the hint and withdrew so they could be together.  He had taken a shine to her, and a year or two later, they were married.] This Terry Waite is from Yorkshire and not the famous one.

I went to dinner with my English friends plus Tamar the harpist.  While there we could see the last bits of the Tierra del Fuego archipelago and the sunset outlining the mountains with multi-colored clouds hovering above. 

At nine thirty C. and I met in Four Deck alleyway; he dressed in full kilt regalia, standing very straight and proud.  We went to the Grand Lounge – our same spot – and enjoyed a few leisure moments, then partook of the festivities and dances of the Mariner’s Ball.  I received a souvenir compass. Various cruise staff members came in costume.  C. and I danced a lot – all sorts and someone trod on my toe!  C. is a very good dancer and tried to get me to relax and follow him.  He danced with other guests and June Applebee – introducing her to me.  We three had a nice chat as the dance ended.  When she left he took my hand and tried to explain his obligations to please passengers by dancing – as though he thought I would be jealous.  At 12:30 we headed down E. Stairway to Four Deck where we parted

The seas have been rougher, as we entered the Pacific Ocean and gales.  Not really bad though.  During dinner I could see the long expanse of rugged mountains all along the southern shore of the Strait.  It reminded me of a very long woodsman’s hand saw, peak after peak.  Of course, down south this far it is light early and late.  Hard to realize it is their summer since we froze all day!

 Monday, 25 January – Pacific Ocean

This day was cold, rainy and lumpy!   One Deck Lido was officially closed so C. helped out with buffets.  I ate breakfast with Marie Harrison in the low ceiling bit, then went to the Hansen lecture on Chile, followed by one on Fletcher Christian and family after the mutiny on the Bounty..  I also slept a little in each!

I had lunch with Christine, Marie and friends.  C. was busy all around.  I retreated to my cabin and literally slept all afternoon till five thirty, when C. phoned and with his two parties, we decided nothing for tonight.  I watched television in the cabin, then went to dinner at eight.  Tamar was there too.  I saw the late movie “Enchanted April” in the Theatre, then headed back down for bed.  I was also slightly woosy this morning, hence sleep I guess.

Tuesday, 26 January – Puerto Montt, Chile.

After breakfast with Christine, we went to get the launch.  C. had gone ahead and was waiting by his bus, the last to load and leave.  We sat together fairly far back.  He slept as we went from Puerto Varas up to Petrohue Falls.  At Emerald Lake we walked to the black sand beach dock, just being tourists.  At lunch we sat with Bart and the man in charge of the tour.  I ate cheese puffs, salmon, veggies, ice cream and fruit.  C. drank my wine and the special drink.  We then enjoyed the lovely view of the volcano and shores of the lake.  I met Mrs. Woodall, the Captain’s wife, as we sat on a long bench in the sun.  She is tall and very gracious.  She and C. recalled scenes from Japan.  On the way back we stopped at a high overlook and took photos of QE2 as she lay anchored in the bay. 

Back at Puerto Montt, we two strolled by the many sidewalk shops and made purchases.  We returned to the ship by launch after five o’clock.

I had salmon and lobster bisque plus terrine and ice cream sundae for dinner.  C. met me at E. Stairway, dressed in greenish trousers and lighter shirt with pink and green tie.  We went to the Steve Ross concert in the Theatre.  He laughed heartily at the Noel Coward song “Why do the Wrong People Cruise and the Right ones Stay at Home?” (An Elaine Stritch routine.)  We sat in second row on the right side of the balcony, commenting that it’s a familiar place.  Piña Coladas in Yacht Club Bar.  We chatted with Zuilmah and Jim plus others of C.’s friends, then went back to my cabin for a brief time.  He left in two minutes for sleep!  Fun Day.

 Wednesday, 27 January – At Sea

I said my good mornings to C. before breakfast, and he was watching a blackish bird bouncing on the waves of the pool with an early swimmer.  The morning was balmy and cloudy, but later brightened and scads of people came out, creating busy work for Helen, Giles and C.  Poor Helen at one point acted hurt when I hugged Giles, so I must make it up to her – shortly thereafter hugging her!    I ate breakfast with Ken  ? and eventually went to the Van Gogh lecture then the wonderful hour and a half talk on the Ocean Liners by Captain Peter Jackson!

I found Christine and Margaret Yehuda for lunch of fudge cake and ice cream.  Christine cried a bit when we asked her about her sister.  I hugged her and told her she’s loved by God and is not alone!  She felt comforted I think.

Charles Sach’s films and talk on the “Titanic” was full of artifacts etc. and very informative.  I found Christine for tea and Terry joined us in Queen’s Room for about an hour, whence she departed for a special facial.  She says she has a £500 on board credit.

When I returned to see C, he shooed me away because a crisis was going on.  I made myself scarce after enjoying the sun and breeze, and back at my cabin C. phoned me to explain it will be a late deck day.  I puttered with my loot and watched “Brigadoon.”  Marie Harrison leaves tomorrow.

I discovered I can plug the shower with a small plastic cup and sit down in four or more inches of water!