Liner Lady

WORLD CRUISE 1994

MOMBASA TO SOUTHAMPTON

QUEEN ELIZABETH 2

CABIN 3068 

Friday, 18 March:

Upon arrival in Mombasa, Kenya after a very long flight from LA to London, and London to Nairobi, I spent the night at the Inter-Continental hotel.  It was Friday, March 18, 1994, and we were driven through the old town, Fort Jesus, the Mosque, Turkish area, and finally to the harbor where Queen Elizabeth 2 awaited her embarking passengers.

After I went aboard and left my stuff in cabin 3068, I turned in my ticket and passport, and then headed for the dining desk on Q Deck.  Tony Bursey and John Douglas were there.

On One Deck Lido, I found Helen Jones doing her usual work on that deck.  She said that when things go wrong she says, “C. wouldn’t do it that way.”  I walked on up to Boat Deck and through Lido to check on lunch. I was the first one.  I ate by myself.  When I saw Gary, he came over for a hug.  Dessert – ice cream, green and vanilla, soft-serve.   I told the Schumann and Schubert joke twice today and got big laughs. Here is the joke!

An eminent musician was hired to give a concert on the QE2.  A lady, wishing to make conversation with him asked:  “And what is on your schedule tonight?  (Pronounced: skedule)  His answer was:  “Skumann and Skubert!”

The ship was supposed to leave at two o’clock but it was much later.  I spotted Captain Woodall from Boat Deck, sauntering by himself to the gangway in civvies, and was amused that the gangway was drawn in immediately after he boarded!

Three tugs helped turn the ship around in the harbor, and we proceeded out the channel, bounded by land for quite a while.  Finally, the channel turned southward and we followed.  I had a lovely chat on Boat Deck starboard with a British lady aboard for the whole world cruise.  She said,  “An eves dropper never hears good of himself” or something like that, apropos of a story she told.

With Mombasa behind us, I went to the cabin to rest and shower.    I attended the boat drill in Queen’s Room at 6:00 p.m. then returned to the cabin till dinner.  Just as I was about to leave, Rita, my stewardess came with my World Cruise pin, so we chatted a bit.  She is from Madeira, Portugal.  I then went to table 208 in the Columbia Restaurant on far port corner.  Two ladies from South Africa, Yvonne and Baby, yes, we were told to call her Baby, and then came Bill Score, a dance host.  We talked a lot and I anticipate more pleasant meals with him around.  Ate pumpkin soup, halibut and ice cream.

For a while I watched the dancing in the Grand Lounge,  I then went aft on Boat Deck and spent some time happily leaning over the stern, and then turned in at 9:45.

 Saturday, 19 March.

I awoke early, guzzled the grapefruit juice, read the schedule, and then ventured for a stroll up to Boat Deck, where I sat looking westward toward the imaginary shoreline of Mozambique.  By this time we were cruising through the Mozambique Channel, and at 9 o’clock we were 30 miles off shore.

I went to breakfast at eight o’clock, and soon I spotted Margaret Yehuda (Christine’s friend).  She came to sit with me, and we had lots to talk about.  The pool was filling.  At nine, I went with Margaret to get my tour tickets, then looked up David Thompson in Columbia for coffee.  However, he had an inspection so he begged off for today.  I then went to the shops and came away with two diaries, a bookmark and three boxes from India.  Rain splattered down on the Magrodome.

As I left my cabin again, I saw Rita, who thought I had only just then emerged.  I went to Boat Deck to read in the warm, humid wind, under a lifeboat; then headed for Waldemar Hansen’s lecture on South Africa’s history.  At one o’clock I went to lunch, eventually to link up with Bill Score and later Margaret and Ruth Joyce (the lady from Falmouth, MA).

Bill has to move away from my table in Columbia, because the two South African ladies complained about him.

Oh, before lunch I located Cate Bradshaw who was the Nanny last year.  She is a stewardess on 5 Deck by A stairwell.  Muredach Timlin is on board.  He serves the Captain’s table in the special room off Columbia Restaurant.

At present I am sitting in the theatre balcony having heard the lecture on Astronomers Royal and waiting to see the Kenneth Brannagh movie,  “Peter’s Friends.”

I slept from 5 to 7 then hurried to dress for the Cocktail party by 7:30; I wasn’t late for the end of the queue.  I said my hellos to Elaine McKay and Captain Woodall, who welcomed me back, indicating he remembered me.  I also saw Helen Jones looking very nice with her hair up and earrings; thence to dinner and the prospect of only Baby and Yvonne.  The tedium however, was relieved by the arrival of Margaret Farmer from Surrey.  We got along well from the start.  I had beef and Vesuvius parade.  I checked on the show and decided not to stay for the repeat.

On the way to the cabin I bought Catherine Lim’s book at the Library and had a short chat with June Appleby.  Another waiter, new supervisor, Paul Danby, recognized me.

 Sunday, 20 March.

 Awoke early again, and I was up on Boat Deck by seven o’clock and read for an hour on starboard side facing the beautiful water scene.  Two pairs of sea birds flew overhead on their way to Mozambique.  At 8:30 I went to breakfast at the Lido and sat with two new acquaintances, Edna Gray and Dotty Simpson till 9:30 when I went to Columbia to talk with David Thompson.  I was served coffee in the starboard small dining room.  Paul saw me on the way out and he will invite me to the Pig.

I window -shopped aft and at Harrod’s.  Sissy Hower came in so we shopped together; she bought a lovely garden scene plate.  This being over, I returned to Boat Deck for more wind, brilliant blue water with small white horses, scattered clouds and clear horizon – under boat 12.

At 11:30 I attended the Interdenominational service., then returned to hear the noon day whistle;  LOVE IT  [Of course, there were two sets of 3 blasts as we left Mombasa, and I thrilled as usual].

I went to the library and decided to check out the Bisset book, Tramps and Ladies, which I started to read in Queen’s Room while waiting for the lunch queue to open.  This is the second book of the fascinating auto-biography of Sir James Bisset who was eventually captain and Commodore of Cunard during the early part of the 20^th century.  His First book is titled: Sail Ho! And the third one is entitled Commodore.  I had read all three books, borrowed from a friend who knew Bisset and who was mentioned as the child on the “Laconia.”  While in the Library, I struck up a conversation with an English lady from Scarborough named Kate.  She divides her time between England and Australia and is on for 60 days from Sydney.  We had lunch together, sharing the table with a lady from Hamburg.  Spoke German to her.  I then read a bit in starboard Grand Lounge.

Hansen’s lecture was at 2:30 and then I stayed for the movie, Crying Game.  Next I prepared for dinner and went at 7:30.  Things were boring until Margaret Farmer came, then we enjoyed our meal chatting together as I ate my salmon, chic pea soup and fudge sundae.  We then saw a bit of the Nell Carter show then I went to the cabin for the night.  [Clocks back one hour.]

 Monday, 21 March: Durban, South Africa.

Since I was awake very early, I turned on the bow picture.  Around six o’clock I could discern faint outlines and blinking channel lights, so I dressed and headed upward.  Many others were on observation deck, so I went up to the highest point possible by the funnel to watch us very slowly enter the harbor. This is technically reserved for crew, but since I knew about it from my previous voyages with my friend C.,  I stood up there alone for at least a half hour as we crept to the right (tugs spraying water) and eased along side the short end of a long quay.  This was 7:30 and I decided to have breakfast in Columbia, where I met Margaret entering at the same time.  At 8:20 I went to get my Shakeland tour bus.  A band was playing.  Also a band in blue was poised to play when we returned.  As I sat on fantail, a piper played “Scotland the Brave” and a pipe band joined in later.  Small craft are gathering to see us off, and a tug is maneuvering at the stern.  We are about to depart.

Actually we didn’t leave the dock for an hour.  I stood on Boat Deck at the rail chatting with an English lady and American gent and we gazed down at the crowds everywhere.  Finally, as it was getting dusk, we pulled away from the dock and pivoted around to head out the channel.  The three blasts on the whistle set off replies from tugs and it was exciting for me to hear them.  As we cleared the long, people-lined jetty, I returned to my cabin to rest.  A letter from Staff Captain Ron Bolton awaited my return.  Progress!

I dressed for dinner, and a German couple joined our table.  She speaks English but he doesn’t, so I used my German a bit.  Margaret came in near 8:30 happily reporting on her holy cocktail party with a reverend, the priest and other active church people.  Velvet soup (spinach) salad and steak, and hot fudge sundae.

I attended the end of the music hall show.  I was so tired by its finish that I hastened to bed.  So far the seas have been very calm, but tonight the slop bags have been placed around, so I guess they expect disturbance as we meet the Atlantic. 

Tuesday, 22 March:

I awoke near seven.  The rough weather hasn’t materialized but it looked misty out and in fact, remained foggy all morning.   I went to breakfast at the Lido, and found Edna to sit with and Dotty followed soon after.  At 9 I hastened to the tour office to put my name on the list for the half day Cape Town tour on 24 March.  I then took my book to 1 Deck Lido where I sat with Frank Hower.  Had iced tea and coffee snacks.  Next I did my 5- deck walk, all alleyways, and in doing so I spoke with Gary Jones and Cate Bradshaw.  I hear Giles is on board as well.  Made a date with Cate to have lunch together.  Read a bit in the Library.  June Appleby is to swim for an hour “around the Cape” for charity.

Next came the astronomy lecture, then I went to see the swimmers’ activity , which was very poorly attended.  I left, hoping I wouldn’t be seen and strolled through the shops again.  Came away with Chinese silk purses and eyeliner.  Back in the cabin Captain Woodall is presently talking to us re: the day.  Fog.  Whistle explanation.  First fog since New York.  Weather change to southwest – drop in sea temperature entering the South Atlantic.  Cape Aghulas 35˚ 15’ South and 25˚ 20’ East. 9 miles to Cape St. Francis.  407 miles from Durban.  23.4 knots (27 mph) ; 379 miles to go, and 19˚ C or 67˚ Fahrenheit. Seas 18˚ C.  Southwest wind moderate.

Had lunch with Kate and Edna.  At 2:30 I attended the talk with Peter Longley and Gillian Humphries.  She has had a lovely career as a singer in all media, stage, radio, TV, USA etc.  Spoke to her briefly afterward.  The masquerade competition followed, so I stayed to watch, then checked out Out of Africa, and bought the new QE2 tape, followed by tea in the Queen’s Room with Kate and friend, both of whom complained endlessly about the way the ship is run – raw veggies, meats etc.  Basically they are anti-American.  I washed my hair and watched the video.  Joined Margaret and the German couple after 8.  Clam chowder, lamb chops, butter pecan ice cream.  Yum.  The Moira Anderson recital was varied.  She sang Scottish songs, Broadway and operatic arias, (Always at the bottom of the note).  At ten, I heard Lorin Hollander play Bach in the Theatre.  Thence to bed.

Wednesday, 23 March:  Cape Town, South Africa

Was awake early again while still dark, but the lights from oncoming boats and the distant shore were looming up from Cape Town.  I went up top to see us drift slowly between the harbor jetties, pulled or escorted by the tug, which soon pulled our bow slowly to port to line us parallel to the long quay.  Three lead lines were thrown to the dock, and three larger lines followed; two for forward pull and the third for the spring.

Two bands and a dancing group waited to entertain in light misty rain.  Alas, Table Mountain has a heavy “cloth” over it, but to the right the two conical mountains are clear.  Broken clouds and drizzle.  Saw both Captain and the pilot watching and giving orders quietly.  Civilians were on the Bridge as well.  The mountain to the right is Signal Hill.

I had breakfast in Columbia with Margaret to my right.  The bus tour 131 #2 gave a spectacular view of the Cape Peninsula.  We returned after four o’clock in time to dress for the gala World Cruise Society dinner – dance at the Sun Hotel.  Exotic tropical flower bouquets; 2 receiving lines; First Captain, Officers and Board Chairman Olsen, then up two floors stood the Cruise Staff.  Champagne and music (quartet) The dinner was fabulous with special plates for 1994 World Cruise.  I sat at table 17 with David Hamilton, the Purser, and Bill Score, two Brit couples and 3 single women and one man on his own..  Black dancers and marimba band and drummers performed for us.  I danced with David and Bill.  Toasts to couples, and Robin Woodall – “Hip hip hoorays.”  The Chairman, Mr. Olsen gave a speech of the usual hype.

When we returned to the ship she looked marvelous all lit up.  I was very tired.  The ship will go in for a refit in November and December.  Big alterations in store, moving shops, Balcony in Theatre will be going.  The Lido pool will also be eliminated.

Thursday, 24 March:  Cape Town.

Table Mountain still has partial cover.  After breakfast I went to the coach quayside and managed to get a place on tour 132 for the city and Table Mountain.  Eventually I sat with Jean Burns as we wended our way up to the mountain and back by the 12 Apostles on the backside and along the shore of the mountains.  Had tea at the old harbor, which is being done up.

Back at the ship Jean, (who is in 3065) and I had lunch at a nice table for two in the port isolated section of Columbia, because Lido was closed and we had open seating.  It was lovely in there where we could look out upon the vast Table Bay with its distant land arm.  The sun shone all day, but that pesky mist never really left the mountain.

For a while after lunch I strolled to Heli-deck and along Boat Deck for pictures.  Quite a wind up front on observation deck.  On my way down A stairwell I noticed the bulletin board with today’s schedule, which I never got under my door, and learned Passage to India was playing at 2:45 in the Theatre.  I went!

Back in the cabin I put up my hair.  Margaret phoned me about dinner at 8, so I was able to tell her we are moved to table 213 just for two.  We met at the door and had a lovely dinner together free from the stiffness of table 208: goulash soup, Atlantic cod and ice cream. 

I attended the African fashion show with fantastic jewelry and clothes.  It was announced that the ship would be leaving late, because a troop of entertainers was late coming, so I went to the cabin for the night.  Left Channel 3 on all night and each time I awoke we still hadn’t left. 

Our new waitress is Sarah, and waiter is Alex, a German. 

We finally left beautiful Cape Town, the tugs skillfully pivoting her around and away from the quay toward the opening between the jetties.  As usual the tugs and QE2 exchanged hoots and tugs pealed off to the old harbor entrance.   —- Quick change of plan!

Friday, 25 March:

Guess what!  We still haven’t left Cape Town.  I went topside to see if the mountain was any clearer, and yes – there was less table cloth – cloud gently pouring over the flat, otherwise very clear weather and mild.  The story is that there was too much wind outside the harbor to depart safely.  Dead calm here inside the jetties right now.  The pilot boat took off the pilot just as we left the last embracing jetty.  The view back to the harbor is thrilling and as clear as would be desired.  Even the tablecloth thinned out as we turned outward.  We could catch a glimpse of the mountains behind, named “12 Apostles.”  I am literally on an emotional high and so pleased we had to postpone the departure for daylight.  

When we were far enough away from the harbor I went in for breakfast on Lido with Edna, Dotty then Bill Score.  I then wandered a bit topside, then settled onto a deck chair  facing aft, aft of the sports deck, to read more of Tramps and Ladies.  I had to go in to attend the Hansen lecture on Namibia.  Bought a white beaded sweater for $37.95.

Margaret and I had lunch at our table.  The wine steward asked about my activities today and I told him about Commodore Bisset.  He seemed impressed and interested.  Actually, earlier this morning I visited Cate Bradshaw in the crèche.  We talked a long time in the baby room.  2:30 – Sacred Earth slide show.  Fabulous slides.  Walked out on the movie after.  Read on Lido listening to the string and flute trio.   Tea in Queens’ Room with the two English couples from the Cape Town dinner.

I went to my cabin till eight o’clock dinner with Margaret.  Paul took me on his arm to escort me to my table!  Nice Chap!  Sarah is pleasant too.  The show was a male choir concert titled Ladysmith Black Mambazo.  Very well done with good tone and Zulu foot work.  A bit monotonous though, perhaps because I didn’t understand Zulu.  I returned to the cabin tired again.  Earlier I bought the Moxom book, Driving the Hotel.   Tony Bursey is the Assistant Manager of Mauretania Restaurant, and I can’t find Muredach again.

Saturday, 26 March:

We set the clocks back one hour last night.  Our arrival at Walvis Bay is rescheduled for eleven o’clock because of yesterday’s delay.  Seas are still very calm as they have been all along.   I had breakfast with Edna and Dot.  Heavy overcast and cool weather.   On arrival a tug at our bow lead us into the channel.

On my way down stairway A I decided to go through the Mauritania restaurant.  Dimitrios recognized me and finally, I him.  We hugged and got caught up a bit.  I will see him tonight at 10:30.

By the way, this far out, a mile or two, we are already smelling the fish processing.  Ugh!

We eased very slowly into the harbor, which appears to be merely endless shore-contour quay with umpteen rather good- sized fishing boats.  For a short while I suspected we touched bottom because telltale mud was churned up.  However, we soon edged minutely on pivoting bow to nestle into the quay on starboard side.  I saw Captain Woodall casually standing on the bridge wing while Ron Bolton and the pilot used the walkie-talkies.

Walvis Bay is a strip-town along the shore and behind it you can see endless sand dunes of desert.  I spent some time in the Library.  June has some books for the local mission.

Early lunch on Lido – key lime pie, pea soup!  Stephen was working there.

Swapokmund Tour 136.  We went along the shoreline with blue ocean to our left and to the right, and rising sandy dunes with nothing, I mean nothing growing on them endlessly.  On the way back from the town, we got out and I ran up a dune so I could see beyond the rise – again, endless dune as far as I could see. It was literally climb up two steps and slide back in sand – one!  We were back by five o’clock, and I washed my hair to get the sand and dust out of my head.  Margaret called to say she won’t be at dinner.  Capt. announced we will be at St. Helena on Tuesday instead of Monday, because of yesterday’s delay and today’s.  OK by me.

I decided to skip dinner myself and happily watched Howard’s End on TV.  At 10:30 I went up to see Dimitrios, but he had already gone.  Instead I had a chat with Tony Bursey, who is quitting soon to work on land after 8 years.  He has had enough!

Sunday, 27 March:

I awoke after five o’clock and saw the moon set on the television as we headed northwest.  By eight I was ready to emerge for breakfast on Lido- again Edna and Dotty.  Strolled with them among the shops.  Before, I chatted at length with Muredach, who gets off in Southampton too.

The weather is in the 70s Fahrenheit and cloudy.  There is a following wind, enough to make white horses.  I saw Cate briefly.  Now I sit on Boat Deck starboard.  Namibia 200 miles away west of us. My time here was short-lived, because I went to the Communion Service at which Margaret was playing.  I have a job to sing next week!  At 11:30 I also attended the Captain’s Interdenominational service.

After the St. Helena lecture I headed for Boat Deck and a good long read.  The sun darted in and out of clouds helping it to stay comfortable in the soothing wind.  Before long, I became chilly so I went to Queen’s Room for tea with the two English couples.  Learned about the up-coming charity bazaar on Wednesday.  Lot of conversation about health care, orphanages in Thailand, etc.

Dinner at 8 o’clock, where the feature was a lovely salmon.  Duggie Brown gave his show., which was very funny and fast.  String quartet, then String of Pearls 4 girl quartet.  By bedtime I was very tired.  Duggie and his wife are next door in cabin 3070.  When they came aboard in Cape Town, they did a number of door slammings, so I left a note  about turning the knob.  They apologized, by leaving a note back on my door.

Monday, 28 March:

The early cloudy day promises to be clear later on.  An invitation to the Captain’s dinner on Thursday evening appeared under my door.  Of course, I answered in the positive.  Gary Lee Jones and I had a little “natter” as I went through the breakfast scramble.  At present I am on port Boat Deck under boat 8.  The sea is that vivid dark blue with white caps, and small swell following.  Stately QE2 is unaffected though.  I read on deck till ten o’clock when I attended the photography lecture.  I sat with the small English couple from Hull.  She has a telephone directory to give QE2 because that area isn’t BT and consequently the ship doesn’t get that independent one.

I phoned Elaine to accept the Captain’s invitation, and she said I will be escorted by a steward at 7:15.   I had a chat with Margaret Yehuda (3064) and Rita outside my cabin.  Rita is so attentive to my wishes and has kept me supplied with grapefruit juice and fruits.  Today she has changed to cranberry juice – a pleasant change.  Now there are also 3 more oranges too.

I purchased some stuff at Harrod’s, then headed for Boat Deck again.  I am under boat 6 now, feeling the soft wind and very smooth ride of the ship.  The noonday whistle has just sounded.  Wonderful!  Read more Tramps and Ladies.  Next was lunch at Lido by myself, then I spotted Sissy Hower, who was hunting for the desserts.  I had eaten my lime pie, but joined her for more.  We sat with an English lady who is a Key Club member, and has a $1000 on board credit among her perks.  At D stairway Sissy and I met Richard Smith and friend from Australia.

2:30 Buckingham Palace talk:,3:30-5:30 Boat Deck.  Bought earrings and cuff links.  Searched out Giles in Yacht Club, and when we found each other there was happy reunion talk together.

On my way out of the cabin for dinner, I introduced myself to Duggie Brown and wife (3070).  We had a fun and animated conversation plus a joke or two re: the thin walls.  He liked the joke about Schumann and Schubert.  Dinner – soup and tournados “opera” – steak and veggies.  Showtime “Encore:  Broadway review – Back to the cabin – Clocks retarded one hour tonight.

 Tuesday, 29 March: St. Helena

I awoke early, and followed our approach to the island on channel 3, then emerged to see the Jamestown harbor for real.  Breakfast on my own at 213, then I was on the first launch ashore.  There is a sign on the cliff “St. Helena welcomes the QE2.”  Of course, as we went away from the ship, more people were looking back at her than those looking forward.  The harbor is open to the sea on the west side, and I can now understand why Captain Woodall was apprehensive of the swell effect on the launches.  All was calm but the small swells battered the launch into the quay.  Anyway, I had a lovely tour of the island and returned “home” around 11:30. At present I am on starboard Boat Deck watching the tenders plying back and forth on their final trips.  All are due on board by 12:30 for one o’clock departure.  Anchor on port bow.

I met Margaret Farmer as I strolled down aft.  She saw a slide lecture while we were gone.  On back to see if there was a stern anchor.  No. Then lunch with Kate Jacques on Lido.  The ship pulled away from St. Helena around 1:30. I read on starboard Boat Deck till 2:30.  Afternoon activities included a lecture on photography and I went back on deck, first Boat Deck, then 1 Deck Lido till six o’clock.  Helen has been ill for several days but is back again.  I returned to the cabin to relax and prepare for dinner.  What a routine!  Finished Tramps and Ladies.  Dinner of halibut, then Showtime, which was a good Brit baritone, Roy Edwards.  The following concert in the Theatre was a string quartet called String of Pearls and an added clarinetist.