Liner Lady

QUEEN ELIZABETH 2

WORLD CRUISE SEGMENT

SYDNEY TO MOMBASA

February 17 – March 14, 1996

 Part One

 Saturday, 17 February – Sydney, Australia

After a couple of days with Iris at the Wentworth Hotel in Sydney (the ship was late arriving because it experienced a storm on the way from Brisbane), I embarked on the Queen Elizabeth 2.  I filled out the Australian departure card, surrendered my ticket and Passport, signed the Gold Card and proceeded through security and onto the ship at 2 Deck, Midships Lounge.   I found cabin 4180, a single inside, left my tote bag and went on deck.  I saw Helen Jones at the Pavilion and waved to Iris from port Boat Deck.  As I stood on portside forward facing the quay, the sun was very hot so I spent most of the time on starboard in the shade of the launches enjoying the marvelous view of the harbor and the Opera House.  Hundreds of sailboats and launches were plying to and fro.  The “Bounty” replica was out as well.

Finally, after five o’clock we left the dock.  Countless  boats accompanied us down the channel, past Fort Denison, around the “Corner” past Manley, and through the famous Heads.  One boat was a miniature replica of an ocean liner named “Oriana” in which only two people could ride.  A steam launch also went along with us. 

Dinner at 6:15 seems early, but alas there are two sittings.  (I think this must have been my first time booked for Mauretania Restaurant,)  I sit at table 407 in a corner on starboard.  Went to bed early.

 Sunday, 18 February – At Sea

I awoke early but didn’t emerge until around eight o’clock.  I had breakfast with Gay and Daphne and a British gent, and later Ann, all of whom are on board for varying segments from SAGA.  I procured my excursion tickets and did the lifeboat drill and attended the Anglican service.

I ran into Jean Burns at the singles party, joined by an Australian lady named Marjorie Cullen.  I had two fruit punches.  Helen Jones served.  Jean and I went together to lunch at the Lido then browsed the shops and sat on Boat Deck till the Hansen lecture.  We are passing through Bass Strait with land occasionally visible on both sides.  To port we passed some pointed islands, more like huge isolated rocks and later a lot of mainland.

Had tea with Marjorie on starboard while we watched birds and dolphins.  Saw Muredach at lunch.

Monday, 19 February – Adelaide.

I emerged from my cabin as we were entering the channel to Adelaide Port.  Again we were greeted and escorted by many sail and motorboats, which kept pace with us on both sides.  While the tugs turned QE2 around and we docked, I ate breakfast with Marjorie.

At 9:30 I joined my land tour of four hours duration, then returned “home” for lunch (by myself) and a long nap.  I awoke in time to attend a band concert by the Tanunda band.  I had dinner of poached salmon.  A new gent named Gordon joined us from Wrexham, a welcome change from the one other man, George.

All day various boats have come and hovered to look us over, and after a quiz and a performance by the Jumbuk Mob, (children dancing Aboriginal dances and a demonstration of the Didgereedoo), I went to Boat Deck to watch the visiting boats.  For a long time I stood with an Australian couple who knew and chatted with the folks on “Tarwooki,” a lovely fifty foot ketch.

At around midnight the tugs came, pulled us gently away from the quay, and with three long blasts of the whistle (9 pulses each) we moved out with the boats escorting us: a  lovely sight with mast and running lights shining.  I went below to bed soon after.  A QE2 bag had been delivered to my cabin.

Tuesday, 20 February – Great Australian Bight.

It is overcast and cool outside.  I had breakfast with Gay and an American lady.  Crew were having their weekly drill, while doing my deck by deck walk. I stopped to talk with Helen Jones as she stood at her post at H stairway, One Deck.

I attended the Hansen lecture at eleven, then I talked with Ann from Glasgow – out on Fantail.   I had lunch with Marjorie; an Italian meal with raspberry sauce on my dessert.

I spent the afternoon wandering and reading.  I chose an Agatha Christi mystery and had a short chat with June Applebee, bringing her up to date on C.H.  Late afternoon I went to my cabin to relax and found “Three Weddings and a Funeral” on the television.  It lasted till 7:15 when I realized I was due to attend the Captain’s party and dinner.  Hastily I dressed and went with Helen to A lift and arrived, obviously the last person.  I signed the register, greeted Elaine McKay and shook hands with Captain John Burton-Hall.  He handed me right on after my apology.  I also spoke French with a little Frenchman who was an amateur musician.  Sang a few notes for him, and he was full of compliments.  Eventually we wended through Penthouse corridors, down through Queens Grill bar and paused for a photo on the Now Mauretania Restaurant steps.  Then we went to the dining room.  I sat next to Gary Burgess and Dudley Abbot.  Margaret Yehuda was opposite me.  Multi-course dinner.

I saw “Babe” in the Theatre after a voice recital.  To Bed late!

 Wednesday, 21 February – Great Australian Bight

I had breakfast alone, then a brief chat with Helen Jones.  I had my photo taken for the Bali I.D., then walked through Caronia Restaurant to sit in the Crystal Bar while catching up on this diary and J’s letter.  I indulged in a Fruit Punch!   (Caronia restaurant has been moved to the old position of Mauretania, because this area has been completely renovated, along with the Crystal Bar)

I had lunch with Marjorie at the Lido – three pieces of Key lime pie!  I followed that with browsing in the shop, then I was about to go to the Theatre lecture when it was announced the “Canberra” was heading our way.  I diverted to Boat Deck Port side and watched her while hull and distinctive double funnels in the rear, closed the gap with clear blue skies and brilliant blue water and the occasional white caps.  These all presented a spectacular sight.  Earlier I had sung arias off the fantail.   It was so gorgeous I stayed on Boat deck to read my mystery, and eventually when through, I did my multi-deck alleyway walk, ending up back at my cabin to shower for dinner.

Christopher Lee the actor was interviewed in the Grand Lounge.  (The Mummy)

After dinner I went to the “Postman” in the Theatre.

Thursday, 22 February – Fremantle.

We were nearly in the harbor by the time I emerged.  At least I saw them turn QE2 around and then be pulled in to the quay on port side.  I scanned the observers, but couldn’t find Erik and Mary, so I ducked into the Lido for a quick breakfast with my Cape Town friends.

I went off at 8:30 and immediately saw Erik at the exit.  Mary and Erik drove me all around Fremantle then along the Swan River to Perth where they showed me their church and other haunts.  We also paused and had morning coffee at King’s Park overlooking the wide expanse of the river.  I had lunch at their home north of town, and they returned me to Fremantle and the ship by four o’clock.  I was able to show them all around the public rooms and have them as my guests at tea in Queen’s Room.  After they left I relaxed in the cabin watching “Love is a Many Splendored Thing.”

When I realized the ship was just underway, I dashed up to Boat Deck to watch us leave and the many small craft, which were accompanying us.  Only one or two sailboats this time; all the rest were launches.  We didn’t have to dress up for dinner so I went as was and had swordfish and bananas Foster.   Had a nice chat with Gordon from Lanceshire.

The show was by the Pirouettes.   I turned in by ten o’clock, after a lovely active day with the Leasks.

 Friday, 23 February 

While cruising around the shops and down a deck, I found Jean Burns who told me of her overland trip to Ayres Rock (now Ulamulu).  We went up to Portside Boat Deck to relax and talk, and when she eventually left I remained to read and soak in the sounds of foaming water and sight of white cap waves.  Our forward speed was close to the following wind so the breeze on deck was gentle and slightly cooling.  Not so on the Starboard where the hot sun made it uncomfortably hot. 

I went to the Theatre to hear Hansen lecture on Hinduism and Buddhism at which Jean joined me, and following that I joined her in the Mauretania Restaurant for the buffet lunch.  I sat at her table enjoying our companions as I ate the superior foods to the Lido.  2 Key lime pies and a petit custard.  Yum!

I wandered again in the shops and bought two more china and brass “boxes” for house gifts.   The lecture by June Owen about Australia was most interesting, since she is not only a citizen of the country, but she is an expert on Captain Cook and other related subjects.  I returned to Boat Deck starboard to read and avoid the sun.  When I did walk to the sunny side it was unbearably hot, such a change.  I went back to the cabin at four o’clock to putter.

I watched a bit of “Much Ado” while preparing for dinner.  I went to the eight o’clock movie and Australian film, which lost me about a third of the way through, so I returned to my cabin and watched “Beethoven” the dog on television.  I slept fairly early.

 Saturday, 24 February – At Sea

I had breakfast with Gay, then moved over to be with Jean Burns and her Austrian friend, Hilda.  Jean and I then headed independently to Boat Deck port side (the shady side) to sit a while.  I stopped on the way to buy a 1996 World Cruise T-shirt.  The weather is extremely hot and humid so I was happy when it was time to go in for the Grandparents meeting at ten thirty.  I enjoyed sharing photos with Mary and Fred, then attended the Bali lecture, followed by lunch in the Mauretania with Jean again. – 2 chocolate cream puffs, and nice salad stuff.  Sylvia and Rosalind plus the Australian couple made for pleasant company.

June Owen held a writing seminar, which I hoped to learn about keeping this journal.  Then I bought a book from June Applebee.   Movie at four o’clock; “Before Sunrise.”

The following sequence filled the rest of my day:  cabin, dressed for dinner, attended a Quiz and then very much enjoyed Joel Gray’s concert.  I sat with Jean, Marjorie Cullen and Rosalind.  That was followed by a lovely opera recital in the Theatre. 

Sunday, 25 February – Bali.

I was awake early to see us approach Bali.  I saw distant lights on the television screen, then fell asleep till full light had come.  We eased slowly to our anchorage a fair distance off shore.  The “Albatross” a medium cruise ship was also anchored.

I went on deck to see the coastline and was aware of a rather large and high volcano in the mist.  The air was very warm and humid.  I chatted with Fred a while then went to the Lido for breakfast.  I then reported to the Theatre for a launch ticket, and very soon was escorted by Brian Price to Five Deck E stairway, where I boarded an older QE2 launch for shore at Padang Bay.  Had to wait in a queue to offload and while waiting, we noticed how close the coral and barnacles looked.  Then – bump –, scrape etc. and we were aground!  They got us off by sheer power forward!

I joined my tour number 78 after literally running the gauntlet of vendors.  I couldn’t see the ship as soon as we had entered the cove where we disembarked.  This is where the hexagonal church beckons the curious!  The tour took all day, and we arrived back at Padang Bay by 5:30, again ran the gauntlet and boarded a new catamaran style launch.  Sat on top.  Was in my cabin by 5:50.

As we were eating dinner – again casual – the last launches returned to be lifted to their davits and we watched the “Albatross” depart all lit up.  Heard its three toots faintly.  I had only crudités and soup plus ice cream followed by cheeses.

The movie was “The Usual Suspects” too crude.  Then the last bit of Christine Trevett’s show and to bed.  Today was hot and humid but bearable. Bali is so beautiful!

 Monday, 26 February – Java Sea

We cross the Equator today!  It is cloudy and rainy and dark in the morning.  QE2 plows on straightly and smoothly through waves and whitecaps.  I am writing this in the Crystal Bar looking out.  It may be plain, but it’s quiet!  We are in the Java Sea.

I attended a lecture on squids, then Hansen’s talk on Bangkok.   I met Jean for lunch at Mauretania Restaurant where I again joined her table group.  1 Key lime pie!  Afterward we went to sit on Starboard Boat Deck in very strong warm wind, which of course made the humid warm weather quite pleasant.

After the June Owen lecture and stress session, I returned to read and write on Boat Deck.  I talked with an Australian couple as a small fishing boat to starboard chugged along about half a mile away.  I wonder where he calls home in this area of Indonesia.  I have to remind myself I’m in the midst of a vast water and island country!  I hate to have to go in, but dinner at six fifteen is only an hour away, and I’m tempted to skip it, but will probably give in.

After dinner I tried the movie but walked out when the second explicit sex scene was in progress.  I tried a few minutes of the show but left to return to my cabin for the night.

NOTE:   The Sagafjord” suffered a fire in the engine room – no injuries, but two tugs will tow her to the Philippines to off load passengers.  She has lost power, no water pumping, also rumors she was slated to be sold anyway.

Tuesday, 27 February – South China Sea.

It is sunny with head winds.  Jean and I spent an hour or so on Port Boat Deck.  It was warm but wind makes it very comfortable.

I attended a lecture on the Smithsonian; then stayed for the Hansen lecture – Palace Gardens and Temples in Bangkok, we have to wear skirts and blouses with sleeves plus closed- towed shoes.

Again I had lunch with Jean at her table, then we returned to shady Boat Deck.  Two small fishing boats were to starboard and oil rigs a distant 20 miles off.  Fred sat down with us till we decided it was a bit cool and we returned to One Deck Lido for frozen yogurt.  Finally, I got to read my Christie mystery (Crooked House) in Queen’s Room, then Crystal Bar. 

Salad for dinner, then Jean and Rosalind joined me for the movie “Elephant Drop.”  I was awakened around three o’clock to shouting and loud discussion down the alleyway.

 Wednesday, 28 February  Leam Chabang, Thailand

I am sitting on Boat Deck starboard by myself looking at several islands and fishing boats as we continue up the Gulf of Thailand.  It is humid but cloudy so tolerable for the moment.  The islands are shrouded in mist or fog and I think I see a military ship of some sort.  Ate breakfast with Jean and we talked about religion, our youthful experiences and accidents!

I chatted briefly with Helen, my stewardess about the disturbance last night.  Crew were drinking!  I photographed my cabin, bought a purse and mirror set.

I stood on bow observation deck a long while with Fred from Herne Bay.  We exchanged nautical jokes and experiences.  All the while QE2 was closing in on Leam Chabang harbor.  When we came into the channel entrance we stopped dead in the water and the next thing I noticed was a great churning of mud.  In fact, even with the stern tug pulling or pushing, we continued slowly to churn as we eased to a port right angle turn.

I had to go to lunch with Jean as we drew on to the quay.  On shore we could see yellow and red clad lads to welcome us, bur we missed their performance if there was one.

I went on the Pattaya Delights excursion, including a visit to an elephant show and a drive along the beaches.  Given the reputation of the town, with its brothels etc, I wasn’t very impressed, although the strand area was quite spectacular.

Casual dress was the order of the evening for dinner and the show.  The movie was about Cuban refugees.  At ten o’clock there was a Thai Dancing and Finger demonstration.  Exquisite beaded costumes and headgear.

Thursday, 29 February – Leam Chebang, Thailand.  A pleasant overnight, dockside.

I was up early to have breakfast in the Pavilion with Jean, followed by our tour to Bangkok by 7:30.  We went off from B stairway at Five Deck.  This was a lovely day of sightseeing; the Royal Palace yards, and various landmarks, which are recorded in my day excursion notebook.  The trip was pretty long both ways through rural areas of rice paddies, small towns, distant shrines and so on.

We arrived back at the ship by 5:30 in time to have dinner.  We boarded this time on Four Deck B Stairway, the tide having risen!  I had beef Wellington and baked Alaska.  While eating the ship was pulled away directly from the quay and I then dashed to Boat Deck and observation Deck to watch the pilot and officers guide her backwards the long way to the end and back the stern around starboard aft.  The bow tug nudged her around the right angle, then under her own power she very slowly pushed forward and out the channel with red on Starboard and green on Port, the opposite of what I am used to.  The evening was warm and calm with amber harbor lights gleaming brightly.

I descended A stairway to Four Deck pausing to peek into the Synagogue.  It is a very small room with center aisle starboard to port and five short rows of pews with blue cushions and white Yamikas tucked into racks on pew backs.  A prayer for the Queen is carried on the starboard rear wall.  All wooden paneling on the walls.  Back at the cabin I washed my clothes and hair while watching “Much Ado…..”    A little note here:  I have never used the lauderette facilities on Three Deck, and do not intend to.  I have heard several stories about the happenings there, and considering the delays and having to hang around to rescue one’s clothes from the dryer or washer before others usurp the machines, is too much for me to bother about.

 Friday, 1 March – At Sea

I had a long night’s sleep and woke to sunny, warm and very pleasant weather on deck.  Of course, I couldn’t ascertain this till I emerged because of the inside cabin.  Jean and I ate together and then did our usual “constitutional” sitting on the shady side under a lifeboat.  Fred joined us for a while till Mary came to fetch him.  The time passed quickly so at eleven fifteen I attended Hansen’s lecture on Singapore.  Lunched at the Lido with Jean, and for me a brief stay in my cabin experimenting with warm clothing in the carry on.  It works!

I started listening to the afternoon lecture, but soon left for shady Boat Deck to read my mystery and write a letter.  Islands to port slip by on our southward course.  Little fishing boats occasionally show up as they tend their numerous fish traps.

Today was the Gala Viennese Tea.  The tables were set up in a large cross shape and this was centered by a ship ice sculpture and candelabras winged out the décor with bouquets between food trays displaying all sorts of goodies from sandwiches to savories and cakes, berries and one could have scones and cream served where one sat.  I met a mother and daughter from Perth, and I exchanged cards with Ida Lloyd.  Jean then went to her cabin and I returned to my favorite spot to watch the islands go by.  Rosalind sat with me a while.  Now, back in my cabin, I am debating on the pros and cons of eating dinner. 

The sea has been relatively calm ever since Sydney and I wonder if we will ever have excitement before I leave the ship.  I had soup and lamb for dinner.  My waiters, Mohammed and Omar get off tomorrow.  Tablemates are Gordon Thompson, and George Robelin.

After the movie I joined Jean for watching the Oriental Ball.  We had fruit punch.  Eventually Gordon came over and asked us to dance, which we did in turn.  He drew up a chair and stayed with us, plus he bought us two more fruit punches.  Elimination dance.  Oriental costume prizes.  Jean received a nice globe paperweight for participating.  I was in bed late.  Clocks were advanced one hour for Singapore.   Fred and Mary from Herne Bay, left at Singapore.  So did Jean Burns.

 Saturday, 3 March – Singapore

I was up early for a nine o’clock tour departure.  I saw the different lifestyles of Singapore, a Hindu Temple and Raffles Hotel, where I had a virgin Singapore Sling.  We were back at the ship in time for lunch at the Lido.  Jean found me so we ate together.  I then napped for a few hours.

Dinner at six fifteen.  A very large tanker was along side the ship refueling.  The superstructure was even above the Mauretania Restaurant.  (Remember this is now located where the Columbia Restaurant used to be, and also that name has been superceded by the term “Caronia.”)

I spent some time sitting on the deep sofas by QEII bust in Queen’s Room.  A new bar steward from England talked with me.  I said my goodbyes to Jean who leaves for home by 4:00 A.M!   I watched most of the movie and then watched the Singapore dancing and snake charmer in Grand Lounge, also Malaysian and Chinese and Indian dancing.  The ship is docked near an amusement park on reclaimed land.  The harbor is huge.  Oil tanks galore across it!

Ron Bolton – Staff Captain; David Hamilton – Purser; Paul Danby- open decks manager;

John Douglas – Maitre D; David Thompson , John Duffy – Hotel Manager;  John Butt – Cruise Staff.