Liner Lady

cabin 4180

Sunday, 4 March – Singapore.

I had a quick breakfast in the Lido, then took the shuttle bus to the city for a bit of shopping.  Upon my return I took advantage of the opportunity to eat lunch in the new Caronia Dining Room.  I joined the Australian couple at a table for three by the window on Port where we could watch the harbor activity while we ate our Sunday beef, Yorkshire pudding and vegetables.  Oil slicks seemed to be coming from the ship and I think the crew in a “rubber ducky” were trying to control it.  The Gangway is on Four deck between A and B stairways on portside.

The Caronia chairs are very comfortable.  Appetizers were served with more finesse.  Almost all the waiters are “Brits,” and many more females are in attendance as well.  David Thompson and John Douglas have returned.  I had fruit punch in Crystal Bar beforehand.

I spent most of the afternoon in the cabin.  Dinner at six fifteen, however, on the way to dinner I met Fanny Cole who is a “Sagafjord” refugee and survivor.  She told me of four days without water, toilets, light and cooling.  When the two tugs came, one towing cable broke and another tug had to be sent for.  They slept on deck, ate off paper plates and cups.  Bars were opened but some people abused the privilege, so they stopped the liquor. 

After dinner when I told this, George asked what they did for ice.  I scornfully said like Marie Antoinette, “Let them eat cake!”

Our departure from the harbor was delayed two hours to nine o’clock because of the tide.  I left a poor movie to watch the process, starting with a long wait for the two gangways to be lifted by the crane.  A last minute paper was delivered, then I watched us released from the quay and slowly be pulled into the channel by our bow tug.  For a long while I debated with a man from Massachusetts about where our channel would be.  It looks like there are several openings between islands.  When I ascertained which it would be, I left for my cabin.

Monday, 4 March – Kuala Lumpur.

I was awake to see us enter the harbor of Kuala Lumpur around seven o’clock.  A freighter had to move up along the quay to make room for us, and a small motorboat darted around, presumable running the show.  I had a quick breakfast in the Lido and moved table to join a Scots lady, Margaret.  She is from Dundee.

I went on my all day tour of Kuala Lumpur, including a stop in the middle of the city for our lunch.  Outside I could see everyone busily walking hither and yon, crossing the big street, and very colorful activity.  We saw the very ornate Railway station, government offices which looked like wedding cake decorations, and various other landmarks, including the very tall building under construction. 

When we returned at five- thirty I showered and went to dinner as the ship left the harbor.  It went more or less straight out past a refinery or power station.  The Pilot boat took the pilot off right under our dining table window.   I saw the movie “Braveheart” in the Theatre and turned in.  Clocks back one hour.

Tuesday, 5 March – At Sea.

Over night we passed through the Malacca Strait separating the Malay Peninsula from Sumatra, then during the day we passed just south of Pygmalion Point and then into the Bay of Bengal, a vast body of water penetrating up to Bangladesh.

I spent most of the morning on Boat Deck in the warm humid, clear air, reading my mystery.  I shopped a bit, changed my library book and attended Waldemar’s lecture on India.  White caps danced lightly on a few tiderips, as I ate lunch at 407 with Marie and Elizabeth.  A British couple from the second sitting joined us.  T was back to Boat Deck Starboard for the afternoon.   LOVE IT!

Had tea in Queens Room with Daphne.  Andrew, a deck steward, talked with me on deck.  His parents lived in Arabia!  At dinner, I had veggie lasagna, then I sat on Sun (hele) Deck as evening drew on, and a full moon rose over the stern.  Clouds passed over it and over Jupiter nearly straight up.  Higher clouds still had light on them.  I attended the movie “Unhinged Heroes” and returned to the cabin for the night.  Clocks back another hour.

Wednesday, 6 March –  Bay of Bengal.

I joined David Hopkins for breakfast and soon Pat, an English lady, came then another Englishman, Fred.  Fred and I lingered a long time talking, then I emerged to Boat Deck where I sat with Thelma and Peter from Haverfordwest, Wales.  It was warm and windy.  We saw flying fish and beautiful bright blue water with white caps.  As we approach each country we have to complete a landing card for the manifest office, so I delivered mine around eleven o’clock.  I realized I was late for Waldemar’s lecture, so dashed in late to hear about the Moguls and see slides.   We continue on our due west course across the Bay of Bengal.

I had lunch in the Mauretania with Elizabeth and Marie plus the English couple.  At 2:10 Sri Lanka is just barely visible off the Starboard side in the horizon haze.  It rises rather high in fact.  I made some Panorama shots of the decks including the island expanse!  Soon we will turn more northerly to pass into the Arabian Sea.  I can see a tall monument or lighthouse and breakers on the shore.

At three o’clock, after passing the island, I detected us turning slightly north, then back to West.  I think the Bridge decided to wait a bit because of a large tanker dead in the water.  At 3:25 we turned in earnest and the ship’s wake showed the slight curve.  The sun is now hitting my spot on deck so in I go!

I attended June Owen’s last lecture on discovering Australia, then went to Queens Room to have Viennese tea – ice sculpture, harp and candelabra table of goodies.  I sat with Julia, a black lady, Fanny and a couple from the “Sagafjord.”  The lady had been caught soaped in the shower when the accident happened.  (Rumor has it the Cunard Line has been sold.) 

John Duffy held dinner and cocktails in his quarters on starboard forward of Midships lounge on 2 Deck.  Movie:  “When Harry Met Sally.”  Clocks retarded 30 minutes tonight.

Thursday, 7 March – Arabian Sea.

This is a clear, hazy day with little wind.  The 28 -knot speed of the ship gives adequate breeze to keep me comfortable on port Boat Deck.  The sea is almost flat with spots of placid surface.

The crew had boat drill at ten thirty so the bells went seven times accompanied by the ship’s whistle and long blast to top it off.  I sit in the shade of the tallest superstructure and funnel, with added bulk of a lifeboat davit (#10) port side.  I had breakfast by the starboard Lido window with a German lady.

At eleven thirty I attended Waldemar’s talk – late, then had lunch at my table and talked with Helen and husband about boats and tall ships in Edinburgh.   On the way up and out I chatted with Paul Danby re: the sale of Cunard.  A Norwegian company has bought Trafalgar House and will divest of Cunard.  There is talk of Disney buying it.  Curses!

I finished Chimneys by Agatha Christy on starboard under catamaran boat #13, by the Aft Fin sign.  Toward four o’clock I returned to my cabin by walking the lengths of each deck from Boat Deck to Four Deck to wash my hair and avoid temptation to tea!

Dinner as usual.  I saw three small fishing boats toward land but couldn’t see it through the haze.  I merely went to the movie and went to bed after spending some time leaning on the stern railing to look at the uprising moon and wake.  On my bed tonight were the 1996 medallion and cruise map Rosenthal plate.  My steward came to introduce himself.  He is Ben.  Earlier I had seen the other Ben I had on a previous voyage.  He remembered me and we had a short chat.  I think both are from Singapore, but later was corrected.  They are from the Philippines.  Both speak very good English.

 Friday, 8 March – Bombay, India

We anchored off shore around three in the morning, because the tide won’t be high enough for us to enter till about two in the afternoon.  After breakfast I looked over the vast harbor enshrouded in what I thought was fog, but soon realized it was mostly smog!  There were freighters, “bum boats” or water taxis, private craft, two dredgers, naval ships etc. all over the harbor.  We had to take a tender to shore for our tours, so when we arrived at the cement landing area, we mounted the steps next to three dhows and through a mini gauntlet of Indian girls who placed red spots on our foreheads and presented roses to us. 

We returned to the Ballard Dock where the QE2 was just completing her docking process, so the many busloads of people accumulated while the gangway was cumbersomely placed aboard.  I dashed to the cabin to freshen up, then had lunch with Peter and Helen at our table, with Elizabeth and Marie.  I decided to stay on board afterward, because it was nearly four o’clock already, and I spent some time on Boat Deck looking upon the harbor.  The big green dredger quietly continued its job.  The inner harbor basin was ever active with large naval ships docked, and little water taxis going back and forth.  The dockside afforded me a huge vista over the main part of the city.  As the sun set and night came on, the city lights went on hiding the reality of the streets.  At nine thirty a troop of Indian dancers performed very vigorous and colorful dances from several of their regions or states.

I went to bed by ten thirty for an early tour.

Saturday, 9 March – Bombay.

I was up and out to my bus tour to Kanhari Caves early.  This sight was about 40 miles out of the urban area, and the whole trip was lined with wretched slums and forlorn little storefronts.  The squalor ceased abruptly when we went through a barbed wire boundary and were immediately in dry, grassland with sparse woods and eventually the caves. 

We were back at the Ballard Pier by 12:45 and on board.   When I left, the gangway on Four Deck B stairway was so low we had to duck low to get out because of the low tide.  The ship sits on the mud at this time.  When I returned for lunch it was nearly high tide and we walked up at a considerable angle.  I figure the rise and fall must be ten to fifteen feet at least.  At this moment, nearing two fifteen, high tide, we are waiting with three tugs poised to pull us away.  The green dredger is easing by us as we wait almost on tender hooks!  A whole lot of Indian nationals have come aboard for a short trip to Africa.  A single sloop sailing close by; it joined others for a race.

As we pivoted around to leave, I spotted the Taj Mahal Hotel and waited for it and the Gateway to India before snapping my only good photos of them.  They are still too distant, however.  We are supposed to be anchoring to await the late return of the Agra people who went to see the real Taj Mahal.

Sailboat 11 turns out to be a dhow rig, with a perpendicular gaff.  He is keeping up pretty well at our slow speed.  We anchored for a long time.  Even at dinner we were still stopped and the speculation was that we were on the bottom.  I’m not so sure, but at any rate we slowly started to move before we finished eating.

I attended the showing of “The Scarlet Letter” looked in on the Raj Ball and went to my cabin for the night.   The Disney rumor is off.  Who knows what’s happening?  I saw John Butt who appears to be on Security now.  PR!

 Sunday, 10 March –  Arabian Sea

What a glorious sunny, clear, mild day with the headway wind giving the perfect cooling effect!  I had breakfast with David H. and Yvonne, then headed for my Boat Deck position under number 13 in the shade.  The morning position report explained we had to alter course several times for the little fishing boats during the night, but we are now on the true course.  I made purchases at Alders and Harrod’s between reads and on my second return, several ladies on the whole cruise were near my station.  The lady from Edinburgh and Perth gave me a nice post card, offered only to the Key Club people.  I skipped the Captain’s church service.  Occasional flying fish were “flying.”

I had a chat with David Thompson at Alders.  I told him about CH and he reported visiting with him and seeing his house “gutted” as he called it.  He meant drink, I think.  I spent the rest of the morning under boat 13 reading and watching the water of the Arabian Sea.

I had lunch at the Pavilion where Paul Danby came by to chat.  I sat with a man and wife who have raced on the Sir Winston Churchill.  I then went back up top for more pleasurable reading, then to Waldemar’s talk on Africa.  That was followed by a style show in Grand Lounge, at which I didn’t stay long.  I met Ruth Joyce later and Fannie Cole for tea, because I had arranged to sit with Margaret Yehuda, who joined us after Ruth left.  Fannie got talking about Oliver Cromwell’s illegitimate sons, then at her cabin (4152) which has a tub and three beds, she read me her notes on the “Sagafjord: incident.

I had dinner as usual, then went to the movie “While You Were Sleeping.”  I followed that with a stroll on Boat Deck and while up there, looked at the stars, then David Hamilton came along.  We talked about fifteen minutes about Cunard and impending sale. He put my mind more at ease and hopes the land- based company under new ownership can turn things around.  Let’s hope!  John Butt is the PR man on board, not security.    [2007 note:  Carnival bought Cunard in 1996]

Monday, 11 March – Arabian Sea.

I was up early because of the clocks being retarded a full hour last night.  I had breakfast by windows in the Lido with Gerda Levy and two American ladies.  I returned to Boat thirteen in hot, humid air in sunshine, but very pleasant in shade and wind.

We cross the Equator today!  I watched various flying fish, which cover quite a bit of territory as they glide over the water, trying to escape the disturbance our ship makes in passing.  At two thirty I watched the beautiful Indian dancer describe the story of the Ganges origins.  Naturally, I went back to Boat Deck for a while, then met Fannie and Margaret Yehuda and Ruth Joyce for tea, followed by my preparations for dinner.

The movie was “Nobody’s Fool” with Paul Newman and Jessica Tandy.  There was nowhere else to go after that than back to Boat Deck to look at the stars and enjoy the balmy breeze.  I can’t get enough of that pastime!

For a while this afternoon the forward observation deck was open.  While I was up there a man pointed out a sea turtle, which alas, I missed.  Lots of flying fish, though.

Tuesday, 12 March – Mahe, Seychelles.

What a beautiful island paradise lay before us when I went to breakfast.  The port anchor was lowered and when the ship swung around, the stern view became the vista of Victoria and mountains in the background.

I rode the catamaran tender to shore, and sat on top.  I stood most of the way, so I could photograph “home” as well as toward shore.  Toured South Mahe.  There were some pretty hefty ground swells as we headed for land, so it was tricky boarding and landing, but the Filipinos are very skillful in timing the right moment to jump, and then they sweep you on with care!  The return launch was my number 13 under which I have spent many enjoyable hours.  It bounced a lot on the swells and wakes of the other tenders, so in order to minimize the bounce, the helmsman will slow down on the wake’s approach, then speed up and over.

I skipped my afternoon tour and remained on board to putter in my cabin.  I emerged shortly before teatime to see the islands again.  I sat with Elizabeth and Marie by the starboard Queens Room windows so we could see the tenders coming and going.  Later, after tea, with Helen and Peter I joined Sylvia and friend Doris from England.  We watched three small sunfish sailboats.  One sailor kept swamping, betraying his inexperience.  I am nearly finished packing.

Dinnertime brought two new people, Bunny from Durban and Clive from San Diego, originally a Brit.  He was hotel manager for the Del Coronado among many others.  He is now a Host.  I saw the movie “Jefferson in Paris.”   Cabin return was next.

Wednesday, 13 March, At Sea.

This is my last day at sea, and what a day it is!  It is bright, sunny, tropically hot, brilliant blue water with visible swell, and QE2 ploughs ahead unaffected – nearly.  Very slight rocking as well.

I am presently sitting under my boat 13 in the shade – away from the “following” sun!  The Mombasa lecture beckoned me so I passed through to photograph the shops on my way to the Theatre.  At present I am sitting for the last time in Crystal Bar for a fruit punch.  Lunch was in the Mauretania restaurant, and my last sitting with Peter and Helen.

I attended the Indian dancer’s recital of a woman’s life – a fable.  Then I wandered a bit and met Fannie and Margaret Yehuda for tea.  I next finished my packing, had dinner and farewells with my tablemates, then again saw the movie “Nobody’s Fool.”

Thursday, 14 March – Mombasa, Kenya.

I was up early but remained in the cabin to see the ship glide up the river and into the harbor.  By that time, I made myself go topside to see us pivot around and ease into the quay where the natives were arranging their carved wooden animals and masks for us to admire and buy.  I had breakfast at the Lido, then went to the dining room to track down Helen and Peter so I could urge them to come visit Cape Cod if they could.  I wandered about a bit, said goodbye to Andrew and Paul, then shortly after nine thirty I hauled my three bags up E stairway to sit in Golden Lion Pub.  Elizabeth and Marie were about to go on their safari.  Peter and Helen were there waiting for their excursion as well, so we repeated goodbyes as groups were called to descend to Four Deck Stairway B. 

After ten o’clock my group was called so I went down E elevator with my stuff and joined the chaos on the pier as Safari Wagons loaded and left.  Very hot and humid.

As our wagon went through Mombasa on the way to the Intercontinental Resort, I gained a better appreciation for the people of Mombasa.  Their poverty is less abject and the city is a little cleaner – [I presume I am comparing it with Bombay] Noted in 2009.

At the resort we were given refreshments and room 148 for ladies.  I went to the beach with Howard and photographed the dhows and vendors.  I bought stuff from three vendors and traded my culottes and blouse plus earrings for sarongs!  Finally at six o’clock we were transported to Mombasa  airport – to Nairobi.  I was bumped by BA to Lufthansa and flown to Frankfurt, Germany, then changed for a flight to London.  I landed on Joan Tewson’s doorstep by noon the following day.

Great voyage, and I am ready for more!