Liner Lady

QUEEN ELIZABETH 2

WORLD CRUISE

SAN PEDRO, CALIFORNIA – HONG KONG

JANUARY 17, 1997 – MARCH 8, 1997

Cabin 4224 

Friday, 17 January, 1997 – San Pedro, CA

I flew to LAX and was met at the plane and transported by bus with four passengers toward San Pedro, where we boarded QE2 around three fifteen.  She was berthed facing south on the outside pier, 91.  I went through the detector, surrendered my passport and ticket, registered my credit card and proceeded to the gangway, but not until I had donned my red Australia coat-sweater for the boarding photo!  The gangway led to 2 Deck, A Stairwell portside, then I walked way aft, using the G lift to get to 4 Deck.  Cabin 4224 was a most welcome sight!  (I have been upgraded to First Class, so will dine in the Caronia Restaurant.)  You enter a short hallway with bath on the left, then turn a right angle to the right, pass three closets with a mirrored dresser, then come to the two beds on the forward side and sofa on the outside.  One porthole!  A small stuffed chair and round table obstructed access to the sofa, so I removed the round table.

My former steward, Ben, has this section, which both of us are pleased about.  I distributed the contents of my tote bag, and shortly afterward, when the suitcase came, I put everything in drawers and closets.  I then headed for Yacht Club via the fantail, where I saw a familiar face – I can’t remember his name though! (Andrew).

During the World Cruise Society reunion at Yacht Club, I sat with Margaret Y. who has just embarked for the voyage back to England.  A couple named  ? and Nancy sat with us.  Elaine McKay, Peter Longley, John Butt, Brian Price plus several new hosts were present as well.

There were only four people at the Boat Drill plus two crew hosts.  That was at 5:45 at Station M.  I returned to the cabin to watch a bit of “Rob Roy,” and prepare for dinner.  I got rather mixed up trying to get to Caronia dining room, which is forward where Mauretania should be, so eventually I approached it from A stairway.  I am at table 270 with Elaine McKay and a lady named Dot who is on her first QE2 World Cruise.

Saw the movie “The Client”, then returned to bathe and watch us leave from my porthole.  I am writing this as I lean on the porthole sill.  We are heading south past the long piers, under the suspension bridge!  I’m mixed up.  I thought we should go the other way!  Yes we are turning around under the bridge!

It took me a while to get to sleep.  As I was just dozing off, I awoke to the sound of churning water below my porthole, which I surmise was due to accelerated screw turns.  The sound abated fortunately so I could sleep.

 Saturday, 18 January

I awoke shortly before dawn as we were still heading in a southerly direction parallel to the land.  It seems the coastline consists of a low mountain range.  We dropped anchor off Ensenada, Mexico and the ship is tucked in a pleasant bay area with a nice mountain curve around three fourths of the bay.  Off shore is a sizeable island with a lighthouse on its northern end.

At seven thirty I went to breakfast in the Lido by myself, then walked all the interior corridors except Five Deck.  Ben wanted to do up my cabin so I went to Boat Deck via Purser’s Office.  I am presently sitting under lifeboat #16 in the shade.  Weather is clear and around 68˚.  Launches are plying to and from shore, but I have chosen to remain on board.  I have wandered a bit and it is only ten thirty.  I went into the Sam Cunard Club private room (the Boardroom), and was greeted by a former acquaintance, Jay, who is from San Diego, and owns property in Pattaya, because he won a Thailand lottery.  He  grew up in Bourne.  We chatted a while and were joined by an English lady named Mary (who flew in yesterday).

The air conditioning in the Clubroom was so cold I changed clothes, then came on Boat Deck where it is still comfortable on the shady side.  I am under boat 17 facing the Ensenada jetty and the Carnival Cruise ship, “Holiday” docked in the harbor.  Ensenada appears built at the foot of coastal slopes along the water.  Now for a quiet read: Original Sin.

While passing through Queens Room Starboard, I spied a lady reading the Full Text Bible Lessons, so I sidled up to her and made myself known.  She is from Honolulu, on from Ft. Lauderdale and is named Jean.  We went to lunch together, then I took a launch to the Ensenada Dock and back.  As we pulled away from the ship, a girl pointed out what she thought was a whale.  It was rather long, but didn’t breach so we couldn’t identify it.  This really is a very attractive bay.  I just saw a baby whale who surfaced twice, pointed jaw, blowhole and large horizontal tail.

I had tea in the Clubroom, sitting with a very tall Italian man who know opera well.  Jay joined us.  The ship headed away from Ensenada at five thirty-five, and I watched this from my cabin on television till dinner.

Harrod’s is gone by the way!  Cunard collection replaces it.  At dinner, there were two new men from San Francisco to Honolulu.  The horse sculpture at the center of the restaurant is made of molded plastic. Entertainment was an acrobat who juggled and balanced on a free -standing ladder.  All the Cruise Staff were introduced.

Sunday, January 19 – At Sea.

I was up at seven twenty; the sun was shining, but by nine or so, clouds and rain moved in.  I had breakfast with Edie and friends, then did my Five Deck exercise walk.  I finished reading Original Sin, then had a coffee followed by a browse around the shops.  Not much to catch my fancy yet!  The sun returned before noon and I am presently sitting under lifeboat ten facing the sun, which means we must be heading in a southwesterly direction – logical!

During lunch I sat with a host from Louisiana, then Edie joined us.  At two thirty I attended Peter Longley’s lecture showing slides of what we will be seeing across the Pacific Ocean.  I skipped tea to return to my cabin for a rest.  I am disappointed in the television fare.  All the video players are gone and HBO seems to be operating. 

Anyway, toward six o’clock I dressed for dinner and watched “Mr. Holland’s Opus” in the Theatre,” which was excellent.  I then dashed to dinner by eight- thirty to join the others already there, Tony, the original gent was there as well as Elaine and Larry.  Roast beef, Yorkshire pudding.  Yum!

I checked briefly on the Neil Sedaka concert, then left to wash my hair and settle in for the night.  The ship is pitching gently.  Clocks back one hour tonight.

Monday, 20 January.

I was awake early and watched the sunrise from my porthole.  QE2 continues in slight ground swells, which she gently mounts and leaves behind.  Cloudy bright.

On my all deck walk, I met up with Helen, my stewardess of last year.  Her position is One Deck starboard aft.  While I finished up my breakfast, a nice lady from Cheltenham, named Vera came to sit with me.  We talked about her Gloucestershire vicinity and it turns out she used to work at the Gloucester Docks, was involved in the aftermath of the barge collision on the Gloucester and Sharpness Severn bridge, and thinks she recognizes Nadine Price’s name, because she is a member of the Ramblers club. We are both glad to have found each other, because of the similar interests.

I attended the first Bridge lecture in the Crystal Bar, not sure I want to continue.  However, from there I went to the Purser’s office to turn in my manifest form, then headed to 2 Deck A Stairway to have my picture taken for the boarding card.  Jay and Ruth were there too. I then headed via Boat Deck to the “club” for punch.  I wrote some post cards there too.  I think this place serves as the equal to Queen’s Grill Lounge and gives me that feeling!

Margaret Y. came in so we chatted a bit re: my many visits to England.  I then took leave of her and went to see the shops.  Neil Sedaka was autographing CDs, and a very long queue was hampering the port corridor.  I then went to the Cunard Collection shop (where Harrod’s was) to purchase a QE2 denim shirt.

After a brief stop at my cabin I went to the Fantail, where I sat on portside facing inward.  The weather is overcast and windy, but tolerable.  Lunch with Vera.  It has clouded over and is a bit moist, so I have settled in the Club for a while to read  Tramps and Steamers by Sir James Bisset.  I also wrote a letter, then went to “Il Postino” in the balcony of the Theatre.

Back at the cabin I caught Peter Langley’s talk on “Globalism” on television.  I had missed it this morning, so was glad.  I dressed for the Cocktail Party, wearing my Diane Frieze dress and headed upward to enter Queen’s Room by the back way.  I was stopped by a lady, who admired the dress.  When I entered Queen’s Room, I realized I should have been in black and white for the theme of the evening.  The room was decorated with black and white balloons and ship cut-outs also in back and white placed in planters around the dance floor.  I sat with two congenial couples.  After the ritual of introducing the officers, I headed for Caronia dining room.  My tablemates all in black and white teased me for being colored blind and I apologized all over the place.  They didn’t hold it against me!  Ha Ha.  Actually, the whole dining room of people had very few odd ones like me.  I went to my cabin via the Grand Lounge to see a bit of the show.

 Tuesday, 21 January.

It is a lovely, sunny, warm day, with beautiful deep blue ocean, sparkling as QE2 pushes her bow wave.  My lady friend, Mrs. Gray from Queen’s Grill, sat with me in the Lido for breakfast.  At nine- thirty we parted, so I could do my walk around each deck as I progressed upward to Boat Deck to check the temperature, and while there did one and a half times round on deck.  I then headed down for immigration in the Grand Lounge, then on my way down to the cabin I met Mrs. Gray at her cabin on 2 Deck by D stairway.  She allowed me in to see her QG single, which has two large portholes, one bed and various surfaces.  I didn’t think it was that great, frankly!

I returned to my cabin till time for Peter Longley’s lecture.  Kaverna is the company that has bought Trafalgar House and consequently, now owns Cunard.

I read my book on Boat Deck a while, then headed lower to shelter from the wind.  At one o’clock I had a soft serve cone then went up to Lido for lunch, and sat with an English lady from Princess Grill, then migrated at dessert time to sit with Vera and a lady from Canada in the Lido.

At two -thirty, Commodore Burton-Hall gave his talk and interview.—He told of the time the ship hit a large Humpback whale on the bulbous bow off Grand Banks.  They had to reverse to get it off – dead, alas!  The Commodore was a junior officer on Queen Elizabeth.  Doug Ridley is now also a Commodore, retired.  Burton-Hall flies the Blue Ensign, his personal flag because he is an officer in the Royal Navy.  He admits it is vanity!

I returned outside to sit near Yacht Club and at four o’clock I went for tea in the Club -room  (from now on I will call it Board Room, which is what we later called it).  On my way back to the cabin I walked the many alleyways downward.   I watched the movie “Sense and Sensibility” by Jane Austin – always a good one.  At dinner I had broccoli soup and vanilla soufflé – yum!  The show was by Michael James the juggler and magicians, the Beckers.  Back at the cabin I watched Mitchner’s  “Hawaii”.   Some time during the day I had a brief talk with John Douglass.  Clocks back one hour tonight.

Wednesday, 22 January – Hilo, Hawaii.

I was up early to watch us enter Hilo Harbor.  The pilot boat, painted yellow with blue, sported two outboard motors, and looked about twenty feet or less long.  Also there were small tugs and one normal-sized one and they started their tasks just in time to help nudge the ship around the end of the very long, low breakwater.  A little before, we needed to be nudged to the dock; we were touching bottom and it took a lot of mud stirring and engine effort by the starboard aft tug and port, forward one to get us around.  Shortly after docking we all gathered on top decks to see the helicopter dump petals all around the ship, but not on it – three rounds.  I then headed for a brief breakfast at the Lido, where I sat with Margaret Y.  She hadn’t put her watch ahead so was a little confused.

I went on my tour to Akaka and Kahuna Falls and was back at the ship by one o’clock.  The Lido was closed so I had to eat in Caronia with Dot and Tony.  I have asked Jon Douglass for a more international table.

I went to see “Walk in the Clouds” movie at three o’clock, then stopped by the Board Room for tea.  They served clotted cream, jam and scones while I chatted with a nice couple from England, who are doing the whole cruise plus a Trans-Atlantic, then Arizona would you believe!  I walked aft along Boat Deck in the balmy moist air, looking along the containers dockside and out over the jetty to the ocean beyond.

I attended the chaotic luau on Helideck.  As I walked up there it was as if there was no one aboard, but upon reaching Sun Deck it was obvious everyone was up there.  I eventually found a chair with a nice couple from Akron and we enjoyed lively conversation – Maxine and Terry were their names I think.

As I was heading downward at about eight o’clock I realized the tugs were already pivoting the ship away from the dock.  The stern tug, MAMO, the large new one from Honolulu was pulling the stern out but allowing that end to be the pivot as well.  When the ship was ready for forward motion, the cable was released and the tug continued to push, but it was using its engine in reverse as it moved in concert backwards.  Soon it pivoted on the hull of QE2 to push her sideways and away from any possibility of straying from the channel.  I soon noticed that the starboard side was taking on water in waves, and soon when swell came around the jetty end, waves were pouring over the side and all over the decks.   It was very exciting for me to see the skillful use and to be able to understand the whole process.  Earlier, the ship’s whistle sounded the usual three blasts then short BOOP.   When the tug was no longer needed it simply backed away and eventually sped around our stern, presumably to return to Honolulu, since it had been ordered from there to help out.  I returned to the cabin, exhilarated.

Thursday, 23 January – Honolulu.

I was up very early to see us slowly enter the channel of Honolulu harbor.  The full moon was coming in and out of clouds.  We slipped into the dock by Aloha Tower, and I returned to sleep a couple more hours.

After breakfast in Caronia, I went ashore to spend a long time waiting for Suzanne Fletcher, who never did show up.  I had lunch at Scott’s restaurant in the Aloha shopping center with a lady named Anita.  We wanted single tables but happily shared.  The proprietor thanked us by giving us dessert free.  I invited him and wife to use Sue’s passes and they got a tour of the ship.  David and Valerie Sorensen.  At five o’clock I dashed up to Grand Lounge to watch the sweet little girls dance the Hula.  Halau Hula Olana.

I went to dinner, where John Douglass managed to set me up at a new table far forward on Starboard (309).  I ate alone until nearly eight o’clock when John and Vivienne Morris from London came in.  They are on the whole World Cruise and quite delightful people. A Mrs. Levy, an elderly American lady originally from Germany, came followed soon by two Australians, Peter and Noel, who just came embarked.

The show was by Christine Trevett, who has a pleasant versatile voice.  The ship left port while we were eating and now is heading due south to Pago Pago, a four day open sea voyage.

Friday, 24 January – At Sea.

What a beautiful, bright, clear and comfortable day this is.  After breakfast at which Margaret Y, accompanied me briefly, I went to Boat Deck port side for a brief sojourn.  That side was very glary, so I stayed only a short time, reading.  I then headed for Crystal Bar via A stairway and Caronia restaurant.  There, John and Noel were finishing their breakfast so we chatted a bit.  The second bridge lecture left me quite confused!  Next was the trivial pursuit quiz, which I did with the Morrises.  As I left that, I recognized a friend from last year from Sydney, Marjorie Cullen, and she seemed happy to see me.  We went to a part of a lecture together.  She is sharing with a “Tartar” as she calls it, and hopes to get a cabin change or relief of some kind.

I went to Boat Deck and sat under boat 13 in shade, reading an Agatha Christie mystery, The Seven Dials Mystery.  Beautiful nautic blue ocean, scattered wispy clouds and comfortable breeze.  Just right!

Marjorie and I had lunch together then we attended the lecture on US Imperialism.  Movie at three thirty, “President’s Lady.”  I then washed my hair and watched another movie, “The Madness of King George.”  Nigel Roberts the ship’s Doctor arrived to host his table. 

Saturday, 25 January – At Sea.

I had breakfast alone, but joined Margaret Y. while she finished hers.  We then attended a talk on fashion in Queen’s Room.

We had rain in the morning, but it cleared so I spent an hour on Boat Deck reading from noon to one after Peter’s talk.   I joined Vera for lunch and we nearly argued about Communism vs. capitalism.  She is fairly anti-Tory etc.  Saw the movie “Casino” then spent more time on Boat Deck in cloudy weather.  At the Cruise Staff cocktail party I met a very nice Scottish lady named Agnes Lockhart.  This was Burns night, and Andrew and Judith joined us a table.   I tried the show but it was too loud.  An Australian singer, Bonham and a trumpet player.   I made note of a beautiful full moon outside.

 Sunday, 26 January.

At eight something this morning QE2 crossed the Equator and at twelve thirty King Neptune came aboard with his wife Camilla (Brian and Elaine).  They read poetic scripts, presented necklace medallions to the Commodore and Chief Engineer.  The Hotel Manager, Engelbert Lanier, was presented and a repartee ensued re: his similarity to Bill Clinton!

My morning consisted of a light breakfast with Margaret Y. followed by a nice long time on Port Boat Deck reading in bright sun and surprisingly comfortable atmosphere considering we are on the Equator.  The humidity was not too high.  I had a short fruit juice in the Club at noon with Jay and friends.

I met Marjorie Cullen before the ceremony and sat in the Pavilion to observe.  We left before it was over so we could get through the cafeteria line ahead of the crowd.  While eating, her friend the Arch-Deacon came to tell her he managed to get her a new cabin. 3112, a Grill cabin.  She was so happy and left to move her stuff.  I wandered a bit and read in Queens Room promenade till two- thirty when I watched another gory movie, “Copycat.”  

I read my book on Boat Deck and gazed over the beautiful deep blue ocean with occasional white caps from northeast quarter.  On the way down I scanned the shops.

My tablemates didn’t arrive until eight- thirty, because Nigel Roberts was hosting his cocktail party in the Doctor’s Office on Two Deck forward of the Computer Room, starboard side.  I went ahead and ordered, then ate two courses before they came.  I waited for crêpes Suzettes till the others could join me. 

Judy Kolba gave her show.  She is very energetic, loud and versatile; a comedienne and singer.  The ocean continues to be very tame, so QE2 forges ahead with a minimum of motion.  I was in bed by midnight.  By the way, all the video players are gone!

 Monday, 27 January – 

The sun rose clearly through my porthole, making a brilliant circle on the TV wall.  I joined an elderly lady from Long Island at breakfast.  She shared her peanut butter with me so I had beans, stewed tomatoes and peanut butter toast.

At nine- thirty I hastened to the third bridge lesson.  We played a hand, but I hadn’t the slightest comprehension of what we were doing, so I felt quite a fool as the three ladies tried to put me straight.  I won’t return.

At ten thirty I went to Boat Deck to stand at the rail.  Warm, humid and clouding up.  Peter Longley’s lecture on James Cook was enjoyable.  I stopped at the Sam Cunard Club for a fizzy fruit juice.  Gerda Levy was there so we had a nice chat re: our children.

I then wandered the shops until lunch, when Richard Craig, one of the gentlemen hosts, sat with me as did Marjorie Cullen.  Marjorie was very happy about her new cabin 3112.

At two- thirty Terrance Stamp talked about his movie, “Priscilla, Queen of the Desert,” and then presented the movie itself.  Marjorie and I did this together, and she then showed me her new cabin, which has a large walk-in closet and one, half the size across from it.  Wood paneling, two portholes, large bathroom, a safe and frig.  Quite posh I would say, and definitely a Queen’s Grill grade cabin.  I showed mine to Marjorie then stayed in till dinner.

In went in late through the back entrance to the World Cruise Society cocktail party and found that it was a very elaborate affair.  There were many ice sculptures around one of the major canapé tables, several other tables with “finger foods” and one with an elaborately decorated cake with a map of the World and the ports visited marked.  To the left of the map were the names of the ports listed in Old English script, white and brown.

I sat briefly with Margaret Y. then found Mrs. Gray on a side.  She had searched for me this morning, so I should have moved to her as I thought.  I was again the first one to my table at eight- twenty, but the rest came shortly thereafter.  We had a long discussion about men in drag. Etc.  Peter and Noel were very casual about it all.   Had shrimp cocktail, carrot soup, swordfish and ice cream, coffee and petit fours. 

We all stopped at the Golden Lion Pub for the quiz then attended Bettine Clemen’s flute concert, preceded by a girl who sang strangely in my opinion.  I was back at my cabin by midnight while Peter and Noel went to Yacht Club for Australia Day festivities.  Clocks back one hour.

At eleven forty- five the ship has slowed down and there is no real feeling of being propelled although we continue going about ten knots.  Moonlight is pouring across the waves to the east and into my porthole.  I stood gazing out quite a while at the foam going by.

 Tuesday, 28 January  Pago, Pago, American Samoa

I was up in time to see us lying off shore, then around seven- thirty I went on deck to watch us enter the mountain-surrounded harbor.  We went slowly up the channel and eased to the dock to port with the aid of only one tug.  The dock itself had a small jutting  wharf, and QE2 had to ease to that and leave the last two thirds about fifty feet in distance.  It was all skillfully achieved as usual.

I had a quick breakfast with Mrs. Gray.  A Samoan band had greeted us with lovely music.  I waited in the Theatre for the signal to go to our tours; then we filed to Five Deck C Stairway portside to disembark.

We were back for lunch.  I bought two trinkets then took the afternoon tour.  At four o’clock we returned to the dock.  Dancers and singers were doing a big show so I stood a while watching.  A threadbare, uniformed Samoan man stood by the gangways all day saluting each person coming and going.  We were warned that he always does this when ships are in the harbor.

Toward six o’clock the gangway was raised, three whistle blasts blew, and true to my conjecture, the Commodore backed the ship away from the dock with the help of the little tug TAU MOU pulling her out from it.  The cable loosened and was dropped, and QE2 slowly backed toward the green channel marker near which it pivoted to port with the tugs nudging on port aft portion.  She pivoted gently to position, the tug backed off and we went forward.  I took a seat on Boat Deck to watch us go past the two outermost wrecks stuck on the lava shelf, past the inlet shoreline and Talofa – goodbye Tutuila, American Samoa.  A letter from Tommy Thomas was shoved under my door.

For once, all my tablemates arrived nearly the same time and we all enjoyed our steak and kidney pie and Dover sole meals.  Andrew and Judith were with us.

I wish to insert a note in retrospect.  Our waiters were Greg Dorothy and Maria.

I tried to see “Courage under Fire” in the Theatre, but gave up to return to my cabin and go to bed.  We will cross the INTERNATIONAL DATELINE around midnight – clocks go ahead 24 hours.  January 29 has been lost forever for me.  Wed.

 Thursday, 30 January – Post Dateline

A beautiful sunrise greeted me at seven o’clock.  After breakfast with Margaret Y. I started to walk the outside and we entered a “low flying cloud” full of rain.  I ducked into the shop swinging door and changed my tactic.  I attended a beauty lecture – lipstick, jewelry and so forth.  Judy the Comedienne was the example of “natural dramatic,” and had us all very amused with her large jewelry!  I joked with her afterward.  After that I went to Peter’s Fiji lecture then went on deck as the whistle blew noon.  I sat about thirty minutes under boat 16 reading, till heading for the Sam Cunard Club for chocolate chip cookies and tea, followed by lunch with Marjorie Cullen in the rear of the Lido.

The movie was “Executive Decision” an excellent cliff-hanger!

Oh yes, last night there was a certificate of International Dateline crossing and an invitation to the Commodore’s cocktail party, which I reluctantly accepted this morning after getting the hint that one “must” accept.

Actually I had a very pleasant time in the Captain’s quarters, because I met Margaret and Eric Lee, who were seafaring folk.  Eric was a Captain of freighters and she waited at home.  The Navigator joined in late, and they found they all live near or in Colchester.

That was followed by dinner of lobster tails with my tablemates, just down one deck in the Caronia Restaurant, a piano concert in the Theatre, by a Jewish American comedian, then midnight buffet with Mrs. Levy and the Morrises.  The Buffet was decorated with seahorse and shell ice sculptures.  Clocks back an hour tonight.

Friday, 31 January – Suva, Fiji.

We docked at seven o’clock in rain.  I had breakfast with Mrs. Levy, Peter and Noel in Caronia.  I went on the tour to see the city of Suva, then out along the coast to see native dances and fire walkers.  We had lunch at the Pacific Harbour resort and returned to the ship by three o’clock.  We had lots or rain and mist.  Eric and Margaret were with us.

I joined Marjorie in Queen’s Room for tea while we shared our day’s activities.  We then parted and I ended up reading on port side by the Library and looking out over the Suva dock and into town, where people were taking buses at the terminal.  Rain continued belting down.

At six o’clock the Suva Policeman’s band came aboard to perform in the Grand Lounge.  They were dressed in their uniforms of white “pinked” skirts and blue tops with red piping and medals.  They sang some Fiji songs as well as traditional and show tunes.  Very good.  I went to dinner at eight with only the Morrises and Mrs. Levy.  The ship left the dock, blew her whistle and we were gone without me having seen any of the process alas!

I attended the late movie, an action and killing theme called “Bulletproof.”  Definitely not my kind of entertainment.