Liner Lady

LA – Hong Kong, 1997 Part 2 on Queen Elizabeth 2.

Saturday, 1 February – At Sea.

There is a little more motion today with partly cloudy skies, brisk westerly wind and moderate swells.  After eight thirty breakfast with Mrs. Gray and Australian friend, I attended Judith Pika’s lecture number four; then Peter Longley’s lecture on New Zealand, followed by a brisk hour of reading on Boat Deck.  I tried to sit in the lee of a large stanchion, barely managing to keep warm.  Bisset’s Tramps and Ladies.  The Water was a brilliant blue contrasting with lots of white caps.

I took my welcome gift, the champagne bottle to Marjorie’s cabin.  She had just returned, so she invited me for a visit, after which we had lunch in the Lido.  Steve  ?  and another host from Massachusetts sat with us.  I then saw the movie “A Time to Kill.”  When I got out, I went for tea in the Sam Cunard Club, talking with Jay and Judy (the gal that ate with me yesterday.)

When I returned to my cabin I found a Cunard reward pin for one hundred days, waiting on my bed.  I wore it to the World Club Cocktail Party.  Awards were given to people who have been on Cunard ships five hundred and a thousand days!   I then went on to dinner, sitting between Vivian and John Morris, Andrew and Mrs. Levy on the other end.

The Officer’s Ball was the feature of the evening and I was surprised to see Captain Burton-Hall actually socializing and dancing!  Surprise!  He has been so unavailable it seems.

Judy Bork entertained again, and Bettine did a beautiful flute and voice duet with her.

The threatened cyclone Federico didn’t affect us as much as expected.  Only a bit lumpy, that’s all.  Clocks ahead one hour tonight.  Arch Deacon Bob Willing 5137.

Sunday, 2 February.

Bright sunshine glared through my porthole when I awoke.  Saw former stewardess Helen as usual on my way to the Lido on One Deck.  I chatted with Mrs. Gray; then at ten o’clock I attended the Professor Smith lecture on China.

I checked on the outside weather as I wandered briefly to Boat Deck then Fantail in cool sunshine.  There is a fairly stiff cool breeze, so I tried to sit away from it.  I soon decided a jacket would be needed so I went in to change some money into New Zealand dollars.  At noon I joined other Club members on 6 Deck B Stairway at a Bavarian feast,  Frühschopen.  While down there, I took the opportunity of exploring some of the storage areas and the food elevators with direct access to the storage area.  We helped ourselves to the Wurst, cold cuts, salads and so on, then pastries.  I had two helpings of custard, and sat with Eric and Margaret Lee, who are fast becoming dear friends, since we share equal enthusiasm and knowledge of ships and the sea.  Any questions I have about these subjects, I gladly ask Eric.

When the movie “The Rock” was over, I went out to sunny and windy weather on Sports Deck facing aft, to read.  Wonderfully blue and white waves!  Then at five thirty I walked all the deck lengths back to the cabin.  On 3 Deck I came across John and Viv Morris changing cabins.  I like the motion of the ship.

I ate most of my dinner of courgette (cucumber to us Americans) soup, salad and Beef Wellington alone.  Finally at 8:45 Nigel and Mrs. Levy came after the Ward Room party, which I forgot to attend.  I went to the sing along in Golden Lion Pub at ten o’clock; then headed for bed without any further entertainment.

 Monday, 3 February – Auckland, New Zealand.

By the time I awoke, we were nearly berthed at the Prince’s Wharf with bow pointing right to the front street.  The wharf and dockside to the south house the maritime museum where are displayed various famous sailboats, square- riggers and former America’s Cup contenders.  One of the New Zealand boats from 1995, the Black Magic, was there – the winner I might add!  I discovered all this as I walked forward on Boat Deck after breakfast.  I took photos of the city and QE2; then went to join my tour to the Waimoto Caves.

We returned to the ship by six- thirty, and at dinner we welcomed a new couple, John and Nola Campbell from Melbourne.  I walked with the Morrises along the waterfront by the museum boats and down to the Devonport Ferry, where we sat a while, then returned to check out the midnight buffet.

Near one o’clock in the morning QE2 backed slowly along and away from her berth.  As she did so I watched the process on my television and observed outside my porthole, noting what looked like an island with a tall towered building coming into closer view.  We eventually gained forward momentum and turned to port and out the channel past a flashing green buoy.  Devonport’s distant lights blinked.  I went to bed while still leaving the harbor, knowing it would be a long northerly course to clear the eastern peninsula.  In fact it was nearly noon next day before we cleared and headed south.

Tuesday, 4 February.

I awoke after seven o’clock, took a bath, washed hair and dallied through breakfast while it dried.  Sunny morning.  When I did emerge I went on deck at One Deck Lido and faced aft while reading.  I changed New Zealand money and mailed the two letters to Geoff and Chris, which I had written earlier.

At ten forty-five I attended Peter’s lecture on Wellington, after which I dropped in at the Sam Cunard Club for an ice tea and chocolate chip cookies.  Eric and Margaret joined me, and Eric and I eventually had lovely club sandwiches as well.  I had asked Eric about the channel buoy colors and it seems I have been wrong about “red right, returning.”  He says it may just be the US.  I will have to pursue that further.  When they left, I went to Boat 18 for a while to read Bisset.  At one- thirty or so I hunted for Marjorie Cullen in the Lido and found her sitting with Marion and Cliff from Australia, who had just embarked yesterday.  We talked about the M.V. mishap in 1992, which forced them to cancel their cruise which should have followed.

At two forty-five Alan Whicker’s World talk and videos was held in the Theatre and Marjorie and I attended.  We had dropped into her cabin a while before, where she had received a vase of orchids, and I discovered a door to close the room off from her entrance way.  Marjorie and I met up again for tea; then I returned to my cabin till time to see “Emma.”  Dinner at eight- fifteen with all ahead of me!  Edita dropped a bottle of wine on my Earl Gray teapot, broke the handle and I got to keep the pot – to save it from being thrown away!  I am now the proud owner of a sweet Cunard Royal Doulton teapot, which will grace my travel memorabilia shelf at home, that is, after I mend the handle.

I saw Jane Austin’s “Emma: again, did my laundry and headed for bed well after midnight.  Oh yes, we could see the mountains of the North Island to Starboard and passed freighters going north.  Marjorie said we passed Cook Cove where Captain Cook first went ashore.  Ben put new key rings on the cabin key, and I did the second one and will keep the two old ones.

 Wednesday, 5 February – Wellington, New Zealand

By the time I awakened at seven o’clock we were already docked on portside.  The sky was cloudy and remained so all day.  All around us was the encircling shoreline with the city proper abeam to Port, Mt. Victoria to the stern and Hull river valley to starboard.  Large cranes were poised ahead and infinite numbers of P & O containers stacked on the dock and some strategically placed at QE2’s bow to hem us pedestrians in.  A shuttle bus was the only way out for those not on tour buses.  A small dockside marquee was erected to house a few little sales tables, and when I went ashore a saxophone quartet was warming up on early Terpsichore type music.

When I returned from my tour I went into the tent to spend my last New Zealand dollars and a musical lady whose husband is an opera singer said she noticed me in the morning, responding to the music!  I bought a wooden cardholder from her.  Back on board I strolled the decks taking photos of the city and came upon the sail away party and dancing just getting started.  Good fruit punch!  I could just see the outstanding round Capitol Building from the ship’s bow.  It looks like a large beehive!

I waited on Port Boat Deck in increasingly heavy rain while a pipe band and drummers played typical bagpipe music.  The pilot finally came on board, the two gangways were removed, and we were off slowly reversing away with the help of a beautiful red tug pulling us at the stern.  Several sailboats under power, two kayaks and little motorboats stood at our port stern exchanging conversations with us at the rails.  Heavy rain dampened the harbor scene around seven o’clock.  Farewell Wellington!

We had a full table tonight at dinner with Nigel.  I attended the movie “City Hall” with Al Pacino, then had to leave because I was so sleepy, so I went off to bed to be rocked to sleep.

John Campbell is from Scotland originally and was a policeman.  Nola is an Aussie.  Vivian and John Morris are from London. Nigel Roberts is from the UK and Barbados.  Gerda Levy is German with US citizenship.

 Thursday, 6 February.

During the night QE2 passed between the two New Zealand islands in the Cook Strait, and we are now heading westward across the Tasman Sea bound for Melbourne, Australia.  After my beans and fruit, I went to Boat Deck for my usual deck chair lookout where I read Tramps and Ladies till time for a lecture on Aborigines, followed by Peter Longley’s lecture on Australia’s cities.  It is really rather brisk and windy outside so a sweatshirt, and closed shoes are in order.  I donned warmer clothes and returned to the deck for more reading and watching.  I ate lunch with Margaret Yehuda and a friend, Kay, then joined John and Nola while they ate.  When we parted I went up to Heledeck in hopes of finding a windless spot, eventually settling for a nice spot behind the wind -break.  Even that grew too chilly so I headed downward, greeting Nola and John, then encountering them in the shops.  I saw “Bridges of Madison County” in the afternoon.

Margaret Y. wants me to apply for two passes in Sydney for her.  I will try!  We’ve had some pretty good swells with cool winds, indicative of the latitude and the reputation of the Tasman Sea, so I hear!   Margaret is in cabin 2090.  We had a great discussion on the movie with the Morrises, Gerda, (she prefers the formal, Mrs. Levy) and the Campbells.  I attended the show – Pirouettes, two opera singers and dancers; ballet and excerpts from classical ballet.

 Friday, 7 February.

Early clouds gave way to bright sun, but I wasn’t able to go outside till after lunch.  Breakfast was with Margaret Y. then I left to do the bridge lesson, but diverted to join the long line to Golden Lion Pub for Australian immigration in the Grand Lounge.  Talked with a couple from Phoenix.  I was in the line forty or so minutes so I went to the Sam Cunard Club where I sat a while with John and Vivian till Peter Longley’s lecture on Melbourne and Sydney.  I sat with them in the balcony then joined them in Caronia.  I cashed eighty dollars and got Australian dollars $95.  I had mushroom soup, Mexican omelet and two raspberry sundaes.

The best part of the day was the two hours on Boat Deck portside, reading my Bisset book.  It was cool and crisp as I sat in sunshine and wind.  The movie was horrendous.  “The Cable Guy.”  Next I checked on my credit thus far and it stands at $33.50.  With that in mind I contemplated purchasing a Cunard Collection sweatshirt or T- shirt, but the prices don’t thrill me.  Maybe I will succumb later.

We can see CNN now.  It came in while in New Zealand and is a welcome change from the limits of in-house television.    Andrew Eardly was at dinner without Judith his fiancée who is slimming!  We all had fun together.  Gregory escorted me out of the dining room.  On my way downward I stopped for a bit of the Christine Trevett show.  Clocks back an hour tonight.

Saturday, 8 February – Melbourne, Australia.

I awoke in time to see us enter Melbourne Harbor.  We were greeted by several launches and a sailboat under power a long way out.  Eventually I could see a large tug named “Corsair” out my porthole to stern on portside.  When near the dock (Melbourne Welcomes You on the roof) the tug helped us turn around by pulling us on the stern.  Many many people are crowded on the end of the pier and are taking flash pictures of us as we turn.  Many more small craft including a jet-ski hover around.  At one point I saw a four-man rowing skiff, with helmsman on oar.  I assume another tug is helping turn us on the bow, but since I am at the porthole I can’t see it.  The tug has left our portside, presumably to push when needed on starboard, as we are docking on port now and backing in a distance of 200 feet away.  Oops!  The tug is still pulling, then around to push.

I went topside to watch the completing process and spotted both tugs spouting their water hoses and towers as they pushed us closer.  I met the Morrises and Campbells on Boat Deck briefly.  John M. hated the movie last night too!  I also had a brief chat on Helideck with the tenor from Washington State, now NYC, Doug Wunch. 

My tour took me to the Dandenong Mountains,  and when I returned to the ship by nearly six o’clock, I took photos of the harbour and had juice in the Sam Club.  About seven o’clock I went on deck to photograph the city and stayed on portside to see the view and many people arriving on foot and milling around.  Crowds were massed at the end of the dock by QE2’s bow and hundreds of other people lined the two storeys.  Agnes (from Scotland) and later Marcella joined me.  We threw streamers down, which blew back up toward us.  I gathered some from the lifeboat area 18 and while climbing the rail I was caught by two white uniformed men with stripes on epaulettes.  They said “get out” but I gathered the streamers, joking with them and with the gate open I walked out!  One guy aid something like, “I thought you were going to lower a lifeboat” in jest I hope!

Anyway I remained at the railing till the gangway was lifted, and we pulled away from the dock while the whistle blew.  The brass quintet played “Auld Lang Syne.”  I checked to see the boats on starboard too.  The three-masted gaff-rigged schooner or Barque was under full sail for us!

I joined my tablemates late for dinner.  Afterward I went to observation bow to see us slowly cross the Bay to pass between the “heads” into Bass Strait.  John and Nola joined Jay and me for the long process between red on right and green on starboard.  A large freighter passed us to port.  Several small launches followed us a long way.  It is very windy, but relatively mild evening air.   By the time I left Nola and John it was buffet time, so I indulged in a very thin slice of fudge cake!  Sat with a young Aussie.  Bath and bed.  Talent Show tomorrow.

 Sunday, 9 February – Bass Strait.

We are traveling north now after rounding through Bass Strait with land to Port approximately twenty miles.  The weather is mild with forward motion wind, but quite pleasant topside.  I had breakfast with Margaret Y. then I joined Nola and John while they finished theirs.  We had a lively debate as to whether John would do a bit for the talent show – to no avail.  I parted from them when they were through and headed upward to Boat Deck eventually settling under Boat 17 to read  Tramps and Ladies.

Toward one o’clock I went in to find Marjorie Cullen and came upon the Sherlock Holmes skit and music quiz, which would have been fun to do.  Eventually I found Marjorie who had won a bottle of wine at the tasting session.  We shared lunchtime with Gordon the host and later the young Australian man traveling alone.  In between I dashed for the 1:30 talent show rehearsal and returned.

I had more deck time.  I think I saw an island to starboard but am not sure if it’s a fogbank instead.  Anyway we pass various ships in these parts, including “Crystal Symphony” bound for Melbourne.  Finally three- thirty came, and I was placed last on the program of nearly twelve acts, a compliment I feel.  Did a good job of hamming up “Old Mother Hubbard.”  Nola and John both kissed me when it was all over.  Our table in Lido for tea was augmented eventually by the arrival of John and Vivian, who were also supportive.  Viv had missed it but apparently John told her about it.

Clouds have taken over the sky.  Land continues constantly to Port as we progress smoothly northward.  Nigel joined us for dinner and told us about the plans for a television series based on his book C-6 (Sea Sicks) re: QE2 Doctor “in the ship.”  I then attended the vocal concert by Marilyn McCoo, which was very good.  I was in bed by midnight.

Monday, 10 February – Sydney, Australia.

I was awake at five o’clock to see us slip into Sydney Harbor with the city lights all aglow.  A tug paced us to port, then as we came abreast of the Opera House (not lit up) we were turned 90˚ then on her own, QE2 reversed toward the U-shaped quay, stopped, and was gently pushed sideways to contact.  My cabin glowed from the shore lights till dawn.  I slept till seven fifteen, when Margaret Y. phoned me.  I met her for breakfast to deliver the two passes to her for her friends.

I joined my tour for the Australian sights, which took us to an animal park and a lovely boat ride followed by a barbeque lunch.  While enjoying lunch by the river, a bold Kukubura sang his distinctive cackle for us from a nearby tree.  I was very thrilled and sang the round for those assembled.  Back at the ship, I was informed my tour tomorrow conflicts with the World Cruise Society dinner so I have cancelled that one.  I did, however, walk along the Rocks area and Circular Quay, then returned “home.”

Tonight’s dinner was the last with Nola and John Campbell.  I hugged them goodbye and went to the opera recital in the Grand Lounge.  Four fine singers and accompanist sang their arias beautifully.  On the way to my cabin I spied and joined Margaret and Eric Lee for a Horlicks, then we parted.  I was bathed and in bed by eleven thirty.

 Thursday, 11 February – Sydney

I met the Campbells and Morrises for farewell breakfast.  Heavy rain prevailed all day, so I walked to David Jones department store and Centre Point, stopping at the Quay to see QE2 as she sits dockside.  I went to the Wentworth Hotel and CSRR for a nice rest and read.  I enjoyed lunch at a small restaurant there, and was back “home” by one o’clock in rain.  The woman at the x-ray machine ran my bag through twice so I could see how my stuff looks. Then I went to the Lido and sat with Dot and ate a dessert while she finished her meal.  Then I hunted for Jean Burns to no avail. 5072.  I washed my hair and stayed in my cabin till time to leave for the World Cruise Society Dinner.  I phoned Jean and we met at Stairway A 2 Deck so we could go to the dinner together.  I sat with her through the receiving line and cocktail party.  The hors d’oeuvres table was made of ice and a carving of the QE2, Cunard and ’75 was placed thereon.

I sat at table twenty- six after passing through a large bulkhead, starry corridor and entering the 1922 era art deco- decorated ballroom.  Large wooden screens depicted dancers, pageboys, a large old car, and a real band was playing.  I sat next to IAN MCNAUGHT the first Officer, who is rather young and very pleasant.  Other mates were Gordon and Ann Scott to my right and Ruth ? to Ian’s left.  The other Brits across the way were hardly visible, because of the tall three-candle candelabra and prolific white flower centerpieces.  The candles dripped all over my menu and tablecloth.  Great meal, toasts by Commodore Burton-Hall, talks by the Chairman of Cunard’s Board and a travel editor who was a poor rep for an executive and American!  (Little did I know then that Ian  would become the Captain of the QE2 in later years, and it was he who had to deliver her to Dubai in 2008 where she was to become a museum and hotel.)

We were back at the ship around eleven o’clock.  I changed my clothes and went up to the deck just aft of the Lido where I sat in the shelter of the overhang- away from the rain – facing aft.  I admired the Sydney skyline about an hour talking with a recent widower from Melbourne.  With three long toots of the whistle (which echoed off of the buildings) we slowly pulled away from the quay and Sydney receded as we passed the Opera House, Fort Denison and on down river past Manly.  When I watched the little orange pilot boat keeping pace outside my porthole, toward the mouth of the heads, it tossed a lot in the waves, causing splashes over the decks!  Finally, the Pilot left us for that small craft and it mercifully fell off toward calmer water.  We have just revved up, so now to bed at one a.m.

[Vistafjord had a small fire in a mattress storage area, which was quickly extinguished.  In transit between Falklands and Punta Arenas.]

 Wednesday, 12 February.

I was up at eight o’clock.  Cloudy and very humid.  Breakfast with Vera.  A man was following the score of Mozart’s Gm Symphony number 40.  I talked with him, and he also has an art exhibit in mid-ships lobby.  I also had a brief chat with Agnes Lockhart from Scotland and her friend by Queen’s Lounge; then I headed for Boat Deck to read on portside.  All day we can see the shore of Australia to Port at a distance of about twenty miles.  A tiny boat had come way out to see us as we passed.

Peter Longley’s lecture on Brisbane and the Barrier Reef was at eleven fifteen.  There I had a brief chat with Eric and Margaret.  While up there, I dashed to the shops and bought a sweatshirt and polo shirt from Cunard Collection with my credit of $90.  Later I also bought a formal black long pair of culottes.

I had lunch in the Lido with Jean Burns, after which we parted only to meet again in the shops.  I then spent time on Boat Deck watching the shore and reading.  Tea with Agnes and friends, then we two went to Starboard Boat Deck to sun ourselves and talk.  The nice French-English lady joined our “natterings” for nearly two hours.

I saw the movie at six o’clock,  “Island of Dr. Moreau”  Yuk!   The new people at our table are from Sydney, Les and Beryl.  The Irish Drovers were singing in the Golden Lion pub, then I saw the “Follies Parisienne.”  They did some Les Mis songs.

Clocks back one hour tonight.  Key Club present!  A leather- bound Atlas with Queen Elizabeth 2 and new logo embossed bookmark.